I realize this is a old thread but I use Aura or Regal Select for all my interior projects. Although they are both high end paint plus primer paints and they are both Green Promise Zero Voc, there are two main difference between Regal Select and Aura. First, Aura is self leveling where Regal Select is not. Because Aura self levels, it sets up fast which does not allow for it to be back rolled. If rolled correctly Aura will give a much smoother finish because of this feature, however if it has been back rolled or over worked, then you will get patchy spots. The second difference is that Aura was designed to use with any Benjamin Moore full spectrum Colour Stories Palette colours. These colours do not have any black or gray tints which causes the colours to change from room to room and in different light, hence the full spectrum. CSP colours can only be mixed with Aura paint. Aura is my favourite interior paint, but it's not for everyone because it sets up very fast. Adding Floetrol can extend the open time but you still need to get the feel of Aura to get a flawless finish. Aura can be tinted to any Benjamin Moore colour but it does tend to colour shift more than Regal Select. Depending on what the clients colour choice and home style is will determine what I recommend. Aura is best for CSP colours, sun walls and bright stairwells for a smooth finish and it has slightly better coverage than Regal Select. Both are highly cleanable when cured.

Mjsee, you are right that he thought it was an unnecessary expense. But I have to also add that it was a communication problem. I went there yday to help paint and he mixed the grey color incorrectly. It casted a purple to it. The guy in the paint store was Indian and had a very heavy accent. He was unable to communicate to me what the difference was between Regal and the new "Ben" paint. I finally figured what he was trying to say that it was the same coverage with less VOC's than Regal. I did give them my tinted primer and then they put on 3 coats. It covered well and when I left it looked great. Morning light will tell if they need another coat. I don't know why alot of paint store salesmen don't recommend grey tinted primer. I had that problem also and he had an attitude and I ended up with red. Now I know better and they do too about Aura. I have to say the grey color they used covered well in 1 coat over a deep plum color. But they used 2 coats with a primer under it. To me, $20.00 is not that much a big deal but to struggling 30 year old's it mattered. Had they had a informative salesperson, I think he would have explained the need for Aura. In the end it looks great.

@andreadeg I'm curious what your rolling technique is. Do you roll floor to ceiling (or vice versus) in vertical sections as you move across the wall. Or are you someone that rolls in multiple directions just to get things covered. Or something in between. Today's modern low VOC paints are not as easy to get a flawless finish as you could even in the early 2000's. They dry too fast and don't self level despite the marketing claims. As the low VOC products came on the market, new roller cover materials, brush bristle materials, and painting techniques had to follow. Do you maintain the direction of the roller cage as you paint or do you flip the roller as you paint? What I mean by flipping the roller is keeping the end of the roller frame you slide the roller onto facing in the same direction as you paint across the wall - the one exception is you have to flip when you come to corner. Believe it or not, flipping the roller will alter the stipple pattern (i.e., texture pattern) of the paint which can cause a difference in sheen. The type of roller cover you use also makes a difference. Personally, I hate working with Aura and won't use it. One of the main problems with it is it dries too fast - even with the use of extender. I know some professional painters that hate using it. Some in the trade refer to it as "Horra." It can be particularly difficult to get a flawless finish in rooms with high walls. Some paints and some colors, and I don't know if Aura is one, can take a few weeks to coalesce into a consistent sheen. This was true of one of my favorite paint lines (RIP) Muralo. They were bought out by California Paints and I'm not a fan of the new formulations. Benjamin Moore's water based oil paint Advance does this, the sheen lessens as it cures (curing is different from drying). Having babbled on about all that, I'd recommend you take the primer back and tell the store manager to mix you up replacement paint in a Regal formulation. Regal Classic if it's sold in your state or Regal Select. I'd also buy BM's extender and follow the instructions for adding it to the paint. I've tried Aura a number of times. The only time I got a finish with it that met my standards was when I sprayed it. Good Luck!

Your problem starts with selecting a blue gray white and a taupe. Look at the bottom row where I lightened Sea Salt. . . As taupe is lightened they go more beige Here are some of the selections you have tried and Pale Oak, which may work for you. You didn't specify what you didn't like about classic gray, but I am guessing it felt a bit flat. Etiquette is light enough that it really turns pink beige. Tough color to work with. Pale Oak is lighter than Sea Salt and grayer than Sea Salt, but is not so light that it goes beige. It has been known to go pink or purple if it is paired with yellows, but you only have blue and purple undertones, so I think you may be okay. An option that I didn't see anyone else suggest is sticking with Pure White. If it is glossy or satin on your trim and cabinets you could do an eggshell or flat on the walls and it will appear to be darker than the trim and cabinets. Another option is to pick either blue gray or taupe and change one of the two colors you have already selected.