I'm not sure what MAB is, but Porter Paint is excellent. In my experience, in the Atlanta area, it's what most professional painters want to use over SW, BM, or any of the others. I have every room in my house painted in Porter. It holds up beautifully and after several years, the paint still looks brand new. I highly recommend it. Silken Touch is the line of their paint that I use. The only caution I would give is to have your colors mixed using the Pittsburgh Paints (PPG) colorants. PPG owns Porter, and they are in the process of phasing out Porter colorants and switching to PPG colorants. If you use the Porter colorants now, they've told me that they won't be able to do an exact match of the paint colors in the future. They said they'll be able to get close enough that you could paint a wall of a room corner to corner and probably not be able to tell it's different from the other walls, but they won't be able to get a close enough match to do spot touch-ups. But as long as you use PPG colorants, you're all set, and PPG has a beautiful color deck to work with. You can also have the PPG colorants mixed in a PPG base. Manor Hall is their top of line. If you happen to be in the Atlanta area, I can refer you to a great Porter store that's already switched to the PPG colorants.

I will look at IKEA for sinks, thanks. One of the things that has happened in the second, smaller bathroom is that--since I will be going custom on the shower base--the finished size of the bathroom can end up being very specific rather than based on availability. And, even though the bathroom is small, I don't need things to be small in every dimension. The shower is going to end up being 30x54 and the vanity can also then be 54.in length But it has to be narrow depth wise--so it needs a sink that is narrow front to back. However, with a custom shower base, if it makes more sense to make the bathroom 52" deep (the toilet projects 22" deep so that still gives me 30" in front, which is generous--I just removed a bathroom with 17" in front--. Anyway, with a custom shower base and sink I can play with one of the bathroom dimensions to the inch. (The other is limited by center-to-center requirements as a minimum and an immovable doorway as a maximum. So some manufacturer who used to make shower bases in the dimensions I needed and used to make narrow sinks or those bathroom sinks that had an apron front and projected from the vanity (Kohler, American Standard, and other companies that have been bought out and have disappeared) have essentially lost my business with regards to a shower receptor, a custom matching sink and countertop as required in one bathroom (But why not have them make one for the other) and all of these items are going to cost toward the upper end of those companies' offerings. And I don't want Kohler's wall hung toilet because it's new and Toto's been around longer. So I went from two bathrooms (three actually) that could have been all Kohler (three toilets, three sinks, two tubs and one shower) to *maybe* buying the bathtub from Kohler in one bathroom. But they just discontinued the color I wanted in my first choice of tubs and the size I wanted in my second choice of tubs --while continuing the color on a couple of *newly introduced* products--it makes no sense....so it seems pointless to buy anything from Kohler at all, for example. They could have sold me nine fixtures and now they are lucky if they will sell me one. And my plumber hates their shower valves so I won't be installing those either. They just lost thousands of dollars of business from one potential buyer.

Being a professional "Custom Painter" of nearly 30+ years as well as a specialist in: Faux finishing, color tint matching, Lacquer products and applications, and extensive field knowledge and experience in all facet areas of painting from industrial coatings right down to interior latex.... I felt compelled to comment on your post. It's not uncommon to run into roller covers that shed upon the first few passes. Yes, even those expensive ones that preach "zero shed"! Ive personally encountered this myself. With that said... any well knowledged "professional" knows that even if it states a performance as such, it's always good practice to "c.y.a." and take the few extra minutes to shed the cover yourself for safe measures. I will even go as far as taking the fresh set up (once shedded) and run my first few passes on a scrap piece of drywall, cardboard or along a wall that's well hidden to allow any straggling hairs to be worked out/off BEFORE I apply in high visibility areas. It's just good practice in my opinion! I'm truly sorry for the state of quality (or lack thereof) your walls were delivered to you in. Shame on the painter who knew better and shame on the GC/PM/SS for not being more poignant in doing their job and ensuring that the quality was nothing short of excellent BEFORE you had to intervene! My best wishes to you and sincerely hope that all has been resolved to satisfactory expectations. (: Warmest Regards, Samantha K. Samantha's Paint & Paper, LLC Rehoboth Beach, DE

@TXBuckeye - First, there is a reason that most industrialized countries have banned true conversion varnish for consumer products. Even China has added Xylene (the catalyst in conversion varnish) to the ban list. It should be banned for U.S. consumer goods and even four years ago, when this thread was started, we knew it was bad. Additionally, it is not something that any manufacturer would allow being sprayed in a home. So you certainly shouldn't be upset that your cabinets were not sprayed with conversion varnish. At this point 2k polyurethanes are dominating the market for a good reason and even then I wouldn't spray it in an occupied home. --- Now, to your point... Houzz is sometimes a problematic resource for things like this as it lacks any real perspective. Certainly, various commercial/industrial coatings are stronger than oil based paints. However, it is not the difference that people often pretend. There are cabinets with oil based paint chugging along and looking great for over 100 years. It is just a kitchen, you are spilling milk and not industrial solvents. Most people will not see any durability difference between a good oil based paint and an industrial coating. Their cabinets look great today and will continue to look great. There are a small percentage of people who will see a coatings failure from oil based paints that wouldn't see that failure from conversion varnish or 2k poly's. However, those coatings also have failures, e.g. many 2k polyurethanes struggle with coffee stains. In the end, you have what you have. If it doesn't fail there is no need to worry about it, and if it does there is no guarantee it failed only because it is oil based. Having said that, oil based paints tend to yellow some over time and that is the real problem most people have with them. --- A piece of advice for those who are having cabinets sprayed. Find a good painter who has taken the time to inform themselves on coatings and try to listen to them. Application errors are far more likely than coatings failures. I suspect that most will be spraying some post catalyzed water based coating such as a 2k polyurethane, but so long as they are able to discuss the various coatings and have a good reason they chose the one they did, then I would listen... unless they settled on Xylene catalyzed conversion varnish and in that case I would kick them to the curb.