Deer resistant shrubs that might work for you include Kalmias (mature sizes vary, but these shrubs are not cheap), spireas (the smaller ones), Iteas, 'Palibin' lilacs, Lespedeza 'Spring Grove' and 'Little Buddy', Nanho Buddleias, junipers and others that I can't think of right now, including some of the smaller viburnums. Some of these plants need more sun than others. Also deer resistant are ornamental grasses. If I were planting the area you describe, I would mix plants, grouping the smaller ones, like the spireas, into plantings of 5-7. Try to avoid planting in a straight line. Also, keep in mind that deer resistant is NOT deer proof. If deer have the run of a property, they will taste anything new and are bound to develop a taste for something that ordinarily they would have little interest in. Keep new plants sprayed and make a real effort to get deer to avoid your property. It can be done.

Welcome to Florida! I believe that the prior posts here have covered a lot of what I consider common sense in growing roses in Florida. With that said, here are my two cents: Don't throw your money away with buying roses on anything other than roses grafted on Fortuniana. I have seen hundreds of dollars worth of roses from everything from Wal-Mart to Jackson and Perkins go down the trash can until I tried Fortuniana. I always bulked at buying Fort. roses because they cost twice to three times as much than other bargain variety roses, but once I noted the difference I kicked myself for ever wasting my money. Spraying is a must here in Florida, even with roses on Fortuniana (the difference is that even after losing all your leaves to BS the bush often comes back since it's roots don't die as well). I alternate between Banner Max (expensive at first but economical in the long run), Mancozeb/Dithane, the Ortho Products (smelly bu time proven), and the Bayer (I think this stuff makes my leaves turn yellow and fall off) spray products. Occationaly I use Messenger just for fun and pay close attention to any changes in plant growth or vigor (so far I can't determine if the growth I've noted has been due to Messenger or just plain old natural rain water). Picking the right variety for our location is a must. Some of the most impressive roses in my garden have been equally impressive in other gardens. Some include OGRs like the Cracker Rose while others include Belinda's Dream, Elina, Double Delight, Big Ben, and (of course) Knockouts. For some reason (disease suseptability in the genes maybe) purple roses don't fare well at all in our climate. Just the same I have a few that do okay like Melody Parfume and Fragrant Plum (Hot Princess does very well for me, but some on this forum would argue that she isn't purple). Lastly, remember that our growing season is year round and that we are the reverse of the rest of the country in so much that our best blooms come in the winter and our worst is during the grueling summer heat. When pruning I find that it is best to only cut back the dead growth and dead head whent he temps are in the mid 80s and up, as doing otherwise often shocks your rose bush and leaves you with a stick ghost of your rose bush's former self. On the topic of Oranges and Lemons: I'm currently growing this rose and it grows more like a climber than a pillar for me. I will say that it is very vigorous and prefers growing like a climber than like a Floribunda or HT. Again, welcome to Florida and good luck! Adrian.

I've got lots and lots of plants from that family growing. They seem to do really well for me when planted in mounds of mushroom compost and provided with good drip irrigating to keep the roots moist and cool. Only struggles I seem to have with them is potassium deficiency which tends to make them more prone to powdery mildew and I'm trying to combat with maxicrop. I have also had some trouble with caterpillars, vine borrers and squash bugs (actually several types of bugs in the same general group squash bugs, stink bugs, and leaf footed bugs) but there is little to be done about them. The caterpillars I can battle with thruicide. The main problem I'm guessing for your poor little squash might be the vine borrers. They can kill off a whole plant pretty quickly. The moth (or whatever it is) lays an egg near the base of the plant or along the stem. When the larva hatches it eats into the stem and then eats along the inside of the stem killing any part of the plant above the larva within the stem. They can cause really quick death of a plant if they start boring in near the base of the plant. You may find a hole near where a leaf meats the stem and if the whole plant isn't already dead, you can use a pin to stab the larva inside the stem or just split open the stem to find the larva and kill it so it can't develop and re-produce. BT or thuricide isn't very effective against vine borrers since they only eat a small hold into the stem and then are safe inside the plant. BT only really works if the caterpillar eats the stuff. The comments about the sun are good. Most squash and cucs I've known don't like complete full day sun though I have some doing ok in mounds of mushroom compost with drip irrigation in my back yard (however they were direct seeded and not transplants.)

You hear good and bad about all brands. There's many happy LG owners posting on this forum. There's people who have had bad luck with all brands. That's called reality. A heater isn't truly mandatory in my opionion but I think it's a good idea as long as it works on enough cycles to be functional, and raises the temperature of the water, not just maintains the temperature. The Epics have gotten a lot of good reviews, and they should, they're Whirlpools and a proven design. Samsung does not build machines for them anymore - that's old information. I understand your budget concerns and I think you're looking at good models. I do like the suggestion of the Miele though. Now $2000 for the washer is a lot, but considering the amount of laundry you do, you can justify it. However, with any of them, I would suggest you consider NOT getting a matching dryer. Save the money there and put it toward the washer. A large (7.4+) CF Whirlpool dryer can be bought for about $400-$500 or less and they're excellent dryers. I bought mine for $300 and would buy it again in an instant. If you're going HE, and especially with a heater, you need to be prepared for long cycle times. 2-3 hours worth. It takes time to heat the water and the tumbling action needs more time to clean the clothes over an agitator. You sound sold on a FL so I won't suggest looking at the HE TLs. And I haven't found anyone who can give rational reasons for steam either in the washer or dryer. I think the word is "gimmick". If you have a laundry tub next to your washer, you can run the water in the tub to get the hot water close to the washer to have it warmer going into the tub. Keep in mind the tub itself will cool the water down. That's why a good heater could be valuable. But it's not the end all be all either. Advantage sometimes? Yes. Essential? No. People have washed and sanitized clothes for years without them. And as you're looking, get figures on water temperatures in degrees, not ambiguous terms like "hot", "warm" or "cold". What's hot to you may well be cold to me.