I think when you put a thin coat on, that is when you get brushmarks. I'm not saying to go super heavy of course, but the paint has to be applied heavy enough so that the brushmarks dry down into the wet paint film as it dries. You can usually see the brushmarks initially but in 5 minutes they are gone. If your paint is applied too light, your brushmarks have nowhere to go to disappear.

Paintguy is right. There needs to be enough thickness for the primer or paint to level out (laterally).

Michael

Thank you both for your replies!

I was told just the opposite by SW and BM. I was doing my best to make it light, which is not easy. And I still had drips - which I was told was an indicator that I'm laying it on too think.

I was so frusterated this weekend with it all that I had to just walk away for day. I'm not happy with my vanity frame. I'm going to start over on that as soon as the paint cures enough for me to lightly sand it.

I was orignally using SW All Surface Enamel Satin in Turkish Coffee but has since switched to BW Satin Impervo in Bittersweet Chocolate.

Here's another question - I just realized that the primer I used on my vanity frame was Zinsser 123 Waterbase.

Is that an issue? Can I still just sand and apply the BW Satin Impervo?

So many questions - so many mistakes :(

I'm on my second set of cabinets. It's what I'm doing after work today :) This is my technique for wide flat areas painted with (Ben Moore) primer.

I use a low 1/4" nap roller and roll a section from top to bottom. Then I use a 3 1/2" non-chisel-tipped dry brush that I use a very light touch, drawing through immediately. Don't brush over it twice - move quickly. (2 paint brush rows for 1 row of roller). Then I scoot over and use the roller again. I do this without stopping until the job is done. Don't let the paint dry out in the brush or you'll get brush strokes. Don't let the paint start to dry on the flat area before the brush is stroked through or you'll get brush strokes. You'll be amazed how fast it goes. I sanded with 150 between my first and second coat and then I oiled. I'm really pleased.

The low nap roller puts the correct amount of paint on the section. I used a higher nap and I didn't have runs, but did have more brush strokes.

I like you got really ticked before I got really happy with the results.

I just reread your post that you were using Zinsser 123. Isn't that like Kilz? I found that Kilz dried to fast. I think it is fine for walls but not trim.

Also, I saw you were using Latex. My technique works for Latex doors too. I know, I know, I should be painting them with oil but it takes soooo long to dry hard.

You don't have to use oil paint on doors. This is an old rule. In 2008, we use acrylics for almost all applications. Zinnser 123 is a primer that comes in latex or oil based. The oil based version would be similar to Kilz. If you primed with Zinnser 123 that would be fine to paint over it with pretty much any coating.

Boy, do I feel your pain. I'm including a link to my thread about painting my kitchen cabinets.

I went out and got new primer today (was using Zinsser Cover/Stain and the brushmarks are a problem There is no self-leveling at all.) I was advised here to get the Fresh Start, but when I went to the hardware store, I saw that it comes in fast dry, and regular. I got the regular--hope that was right. As usual, the guy in the paint dept was useless!

I'm going to start working at it again tonight...

I hate this job. I wanted so much to hire a painter, but my husband didn't. He actually said he'd give *me* the money that a painter would cost if I did the job myself. (He wants to keep the money in the family.) Fine...but he doesn't know I'm considering botox with my earnings! I'll need it after this job--my frown lines are getting worse and worse!

I've looked and looked for Michael's cabinet painting guide, but I can't find it here...

Francy

Here is a link that might be useful: I hate painting my kitchen