Is the dryer a gas model? If so you may have problems with odors for a few weeks or a month or so. Gas dryers are notorious for burning the off-gassed chemicals from recent paint jobs and floor refinishes, leaving the clothing with a nasty chemical/solvent smell that some report is very hard to get out. The temporary cure is to use the dryer with the windows wide open. (Try rewashing, then air drying your comforter outside to see if the smell comes from the washer or detergent or the dryer.) A good FL should rinse all the traces of your detergent product out so completely you shouldn't smell anything. It takes a while to get used to the smell of clean fabric as opposed to petro-chemical derivatives of deteregnt perfumes. I had to give up my then-fave ERA detergent when I first used Fls; I grieved for its familiar smell which up to that point meant I had lovely, clean clothes. Your nose will adjust to the new smell of clean, without all the faux-fresh scent. With a F/L, if you smell the detergent, you're not operating it properly. If you use vinegar as a softener, you can use it in every load in place of f/s. Proper detergent dosing (and correct product selection for your water chemistry); regular use of hotter water temps and leaving the door of your machine ajar for several hours after use will go a long way towards keeping your machine clean. While vinegar is mildly acidic, I don't think it would do much to correct or maintain a machine. It's main use is as a rinse aid. I wouldn't use Lysol products around the rubber seal, instead just wipe it dry (if you feel you must, I never do and I've been using Fl for many, many years with no stinkies). Have fun with your new machines! Molly~

Reading all your posts makes it sound so easy to use chalkboard paint. I've been trying since last summer to paint 24"x24" chalkboards to frame as gifts. The finish turns out terrible! I've gone through about 6 quarts of paint and numberous rollers and brushes. I start with a nice clean smooth piece of masonite. First I paint it with primer, then sand it so it is again nice and smooth. Then the trouble begins. I've used all different kinds of rollers and brushes from the most expensive I could find to the cheapest. And yes, I've tried foam rollers and sponge brushes. I've even tried different brands of paint. The problem with the rollers is they leave a very textured finish. The problem with brushes is they leave loads of lines. I finally asked my brother to paint a board and the results were the same. Everyone tells me you should have a nice finish with no texture or lines. I can't believe I am the only person who has this probem. I have spoken to people at paint stores and have even called the manufacturers of the paint. They just keep telling me it should work. Months ago I posted on another forum to ask for help, but they just said use a foam roller. Someone did suggest that I try the spray, but that is definitely out. I don't have a place or the equipment for that so, that is not an option. I am very discouraged, but I'm determined not to give up. But, trying the same thing over and over just doesn't work. I would be so thrilled if anyone has any ideas at all that may help!! Thanks for taking the time to read my post.

I don't see why you need more primer over pre-primed MDF. Most likely 1 coat of BM Aura Satin will be fine. If not, you can always put on another coat of paint. THe purpose of primer is for better bonding and stain coverage. You will be fine. I agree with above that "white" is very stark and cold. I like "Timid White" which is very clean and nearly white. A tad offwhite, but still clean and white appearing is "Sparkling Wine". I'm also not sure why you would mix semi and satin in the same room? I have Aura Satin throughout my kitchen (cabinets and trims) and it is very tough and washable. I also have a hallway with beadboard and trim and used Satin on both. I also have a chair rail in the dining room with picture molding on the bottom. It is all in white (sparkling wine actually) satin, including the drywall. I prefer eggshell finish on drywall for a little more washability over matte. I think the TSP substitutes probably don't work as well as real TSP, but better for the environment. Admittedly, that opinion is probably biased. It is hard to avoid 2 coats on ceiling. I think it depends on how long it has been and the color difference. Ceilings seem to absorb a ton of paint. I don't know the names you mentioned, but the best ceiling paint is thickest... less splattering better coverage. I also don't like pure white on a ceiling. I have used BM Linen White Flat on my last ceiling.

I wish they made standard paint as easy to use as chalk board. Love how easy it goes on and covers. Have not tried repainting such. My personal take would be to create a panel for the area you are wanting to paint. Also, with hardwood floors, think about using carpet tiles. Leave the backing on so you can remove and clean. Know this isn't a great decor, but saves your floor. I'm a chalk pastel artist and create a lot of dust with a lot of color involved which is a tough call to get out of anything. Not pretty, but always have a paint cloth wherever this is going on rather than take a chance on the wood floor. Regular chalk doesn't have the dye involved. I made a large chalkboard for my daughters fridge, grand kids abound. She hasn't had a big problem with chalk dust, but does use a damp cloth to clean rather than a board eraser. I also added some unused scrabble tile holders across the bottom. It catches the dust and is a place for chalk to hang out. You could consider a trim for doing the same. Another option would be making the kids wear old socks while playing there. Just be sure to take them off before ending the joy. The socks would grab most of the dust. Now I have the vision of the baby ad with a dust mop as jammies crawling all over the floor to dust it.