The cabinets I think were Cypress. I live in Louisiana & I have the remodel plans from the person that built the pool house addition & they call for cypress. That is a wood that is native to here but, the grain is much like an oak so maybe it is cypress or maybe it is oak. Anyway, there is definitely a grain to it. DH and i argued about the primer coats & how many to put. I won that won (not that it got me anything) because the ones I did don't show any graining with 2 coats of primer. The ones he did do. So if you have thick coat of stain and/or any top coat on oak, you have to sand really well first. Then 2 coats of primer are a must - IMHO. I can see the grain in the ones that DH did and it drives me nutso. Like the underneath of the upper cabs for example. If he had sanded better & done 2 coats of primer, I don't think you would see it since I don't see the grain on the other surfaces. Who knows though because they were custom cabs, the cabinet guy could have used other woods too. They are 8 years old. Don't be afraid though. It is a lot of work but, if you follow the advice on this forum, the result is worth it. The cabs are not that shiny, it's just the lighting in the pool house is not great. They are very pretty. To the poster that asked about DIY cabs, there are some, mostly though people rip out old and put in new. I think that totally depends on the age of the cabs and the condition. If you can save what you have you are technically "going green". How in vogue is that? If they are nasty and have no character to them, then you have to start over. I have seen several posts for people that re-did therofoil or whatever it is called. It is more detailed what needs to be done but, nonetheless, less than new cabs are. I have friends and have seen many posters whose cabinets were $75k. Wow, that's a ton of money. So if you can figure it out, use what you have! Go for it. A little at a time is fine too. If you hate your cabinets, paint them. There are many posters here that have black, blue, brown or white cabinets. All look good. If you can use what you have then a little paint is so cheap compared to new. To be honest, I have the same types of cabinets in my kitchen, laundry, DD bath in my 1950s/remodeled in 2000 house that are 8 years old. All of those cabinets, I will either paint or have painted professionally, the wood is not really nice enough to restain. The ones in my Master bath & guest bath that are original to the house and then painted from 1950, they are out. They are just flat front wood nothing cabinets. There is no saving those. Anything in the last 20 years thougth might be savagable. There are so many options for colors. I can post some colored cabinets from my inspiration file if you would like to see them. that will show you paint grade cabs that are just beautiful.

Well here's the thing that's changed significantly in the last, I dunno maybe 18 months or so... There are now hand-held colorimeters that cost less than $300 (with accompanying apps) available to anybody and everybody. What that means is you can measure the colors. No need for a blind test - we've evolved waaaaay beyond that. Granted a comparison using qualified observers (people) would still be interesting, I suppose, for some people. But if you're just wanting to answer the question, "is paint color mixed full spectrum really different from regular paint color using black.", it's ridiculously easy to answer it. Like stupid easy. And the data leaves no room for argument. The spectral distribution of the two colors will be different. Spectral power distribution (SPD) is sometimes called a color's fingerprint. The SPDs of the two colors will differ and the one mixed with more pigments (assuming a balanced mix was the objective) will have a more "full" SPD. So, if I were a paint company wanting to clarify our point of view on what full spectrum means, I'd be reaching for the fingerprints. Technology has rendered the debate can you tell the difference between a full spectrum color and a regularly mixed color inane. Yes. Unquestionably they will be different and you can easily and cheaply obtain the data to illustrate it. The full spectrum question to ask here in the year 2014 is how would you like to use that data to qualify and quantify full spectrum color? On the observer end of it, that doesn't change much. Different formulas can result in the same paint color. The fact still remains that through the process that is the human vision system, people experience and respond to color uniquely. It isn't far-fetched that some people would respond to paint colors mixed full spectrum different from how they respond to colors that are not. Whether they can differentiate between the two VISUALLY isn't the point. And this is a much a bigger and deeper issue. A much bigger and deeper issue than just mixing one color two different ways and having the results visually match.

Thanks for your reply begoniagirl! I assumed by your handle that gardening, or at least Begonias, were a passion :) Gardening is what brought me to Gardenweb so many years ago....I'm thankful for all the dear friends I've met and the amazing plants I have received from them through trades. I love Gouldian Finches and have always wanted to give a few a home. They are so beautiful. After losing my 8 year old Parakeet, I decided that small birds w/ a short life span were just not for me. Although the tiny ones are the most hilarious. We are owned by an African Grey, a Greenwinged Macaw, and a Cockatiel. They, along with my toddler, run the show around here. I want them all to be around for a long time, which is why this paint decision is so important to me. So glad to hear about your good experience with Aura and I'm looking forward to trying it out. I plan to sample both Aura and Natura and will be sure to post my results.

No, you don't need primer but sheetrock really sucks up the first coat so it may be cheaper to use a primer, then finish with 2 coats of Aura. If you have not chosen a saturated color, you may be able to get away with 2 coats total though in which case I would say to skip the primer and just use the Aura. Although I am not a painter by trade, I have some rental properties and paint 3 full houses a year. I always use Aura paint because the great coverage and short dry time save me a lot of time.