jewels04 writes: "I'm very happy that the people we got the washer from actually took care of it, used to correct detergents and they actually wiped stuff down and ran hot washes with bleach and left the door and detergent tray open to prevent mold. So when we got it it didn't have a smell and looked brand new!" jewel04, congratulations for getting a well-designed washing machine. We just replaced our 1995 Frigidaire Gallery washing machine after 16 years of reliable service, and it served us very very well. It was not broken -- worked perfectly -- when we replaced it, but we had a chance, at a very, very good price, to replace it with a newer machine that promises similar longevity, and so at our age, we opted to get our "last" washing machine now. That said, we never saw any need to "wipe stuff down" in our old Frigidaire Gallery washer -- never did -- and we never had a mold issue or a smell issue. We never, ever "ran hot washes with bleach" in the life of the machine, and we never had a mold issue or a smell issue. We never "left the detergent tray open to prevent mold." Why would we? For 16 years with that machine we used a liquid detergent (Biokleen All Temperature), and never, ever, ever, ever did we see any mold develop inside the detergent bottle, even though the top always was on the bottle to create a sealed, moist environment. (Of course, mold never formed in the detergent tray, either.) If mold never formed in full strength detergent inside a detergent bottle, why on earth would it EVER form inside a detergent drawer that has VERY THOROUGHLY been washed down by the incoming wash water? Leaving the detergent tray open to prevent mold is a bit like walking down the sidewalk and not stepping on cracks so as not to break your mother's back. Enjoy your "new" used Frigidaire Gallery, but please do not think that you need to treat it like a fragile china doll to prevent mold. Treat it normally, and it will go for years without ever having a mold issue or a smell issue. Oh, and get over looking for suds. There is absolutely no reason why any detergent needs to show suds to clean effectively. Judge a detergent solely by how well it cleans your clothes and sheets, not by whether it gives you visual entertainment.

YepÂwe are a very small town but that is what we were looking for when we decided to move. Our "downtown" area has a small grocery store, hardware store, bank, post office, etc. The next bigger towns are Sterling and Dixon. We do a lot of our other shopping in Sterling because they have a Walmart and K-Mart plus a Menards. YouÂre correctÂJoliet has tripled its population in the last 14 years. It just too congested for us. Driving down Rt 52 is hazardous to your health. SamKaren your resident DJ

I haven't taken any of the inside but here is a video at a sales site that shows the inside. It's called the Bunkhouse size because it has a child's space with a second dinette area with it's own tv and it makes into bunk beds. We plan on using it for company of course but for out Aussie Molly as she will travel with us most pf the time. Here is a link that might be useful: Inside of our RV

Your plant seems to be doing well, Madeleine. Strong work! Thanks for the kindness in your words, Leslie. There are ways to put some simple science to work that can help you cope with soils that are too water retentive. Try reading this, http://forums2.gardenweb.com/forums/load/contain/msg0914024623640.html?37, then ask any questions you might have. When you say to 'stop the pruning cuts just beyond where a smaller root branches towards the outside of the root you are pruning'.. are there images of this somewhere that may help me understand? I hope that helps. You want to concentrate on removing large roots that aren't really necessary for anchorage so there is room for a much larger volume of fine roots. Of course, it's unlikely your tree's roots will be as well ordered as those of the guy who dreamed up the image, but you should get the gist. Recovery is much faster if you prune just distal (beyond) a fine root pointed away from an imaginary line straight down from the trunk's center. When the pruning of the roots is completed (keeping them moist during the process) and we are ready to place the tree back into the pot, does the soil need to be damp or moist? I bare-root, then root prune and let the roots soak in a tub while I prepare the pot and partially fill with dry soil (if it's gritty mix). I lift the plant with wet roots from the tub and set it on the soil and fill in around the roots with dry soil and work it into all the pockets between roots with a wooden dowel that's sharp on the end but not extremely so - like a very dull pencil. If I'm repotting with the 5:1:1 mix, I make sure it's damp enough so as not to be hydrophobic. I dampen the soil by starting with dry. Before I start the root work, I take about 1/4 of the volume pof soil I'll need and put it in a pot or bucket and add enough water to completely saturate it - so it's mucky - and let it soak for a few minutes. Then I mix it well into the dry soil and allow it to rest while I'm doing the root work. By the time it's ready to use, it's no longer hydrophobic. Do we need to water the tree as soon as we are done repotting it? Yes - whether using the 5:1:1 or gritty, water well. Water the gritty until the drainage water is perfectly clear. The only exception might be various succulents and/or cacti. Edited to say: I'm not sure why the formatting came out weird when I copy/pasted your questions. Sorry Al