Molly, lucky you with the easy apart windows. Mine have tenons secured with dowels, but the dowels have never been easy to remove. This post got me going and I put a final exterior coat on my window yesterday. It's a second story window so I try to do as much on the ground as I can. I'm in a race against age, mine more than the house. I may try drilling a dowel out of a rescued sash to see if I can get it apart. We are making wooden storms with tenons and dowels and repair pieces can't be much more difficult to fabricate. Can you hear my husband moaning? I think it is going to become more and more difficult to purchase anything oil based. Do you think linseed oil will also "evaporate" from the market? I know I'm starting to sound old, but I just can't completely accept the latex is better theory. Will oil based glazing compound also be banned? I think there are water based glazing compounds that do not require any wait time to skin over. I use UGL compound and it sometimes takes 10 days before I feel comfortable enough to prime over it. I'm usually ready to have an excuse for a break at that point. If you know of a better compound, please let me know. I'm sure the original poster is well on his way to complete his painting project, but I thought this site had a decent sequence of repair for a variety of old house projects. I'm sure many of us can identify with the "before" examples. It would also be nice to have input from the forum experts on the methods used on the site. Has anyone used the Multi Wood Primer mentioned on it? I think I'll order a can and try some if no one here has negative reports. I'll bet someone on the Old House Journal forum has an FPL formula for you. I can't imagine having to repaint our barn with latex paint on the next go round. I get a mental image of us crossing some border and smuggling the banned ingedients and paints back into the country. I hope people will chime in on the site I've included. If it has been discussed in the past, someone just needs to yell at me and direct me to the thread. I'm up early to finish prepping the the parting bead and stops and am praying that I have enough sash cord to finish this. Here is a link that might be useful: repair and paint old siding, etc

I've been painting on candles for a long time and I've never used candle medium (they didn't have such a thing when I got started) :-) I have never experienced my designs coming off. With or without candle medium, the design can still be scraped off if you try hard enough but who's going to? Realistically that's the only way it's bound to come off anyway. I've never had problems with my candle designs coming off just from everyday handling of them. All I do is clean my candle first with rubbng alcohol to remove any dirt and oil residue and paint. The secret here is to use a high pigment paint so your paint doesn't bead up on the wax surface. I prefer FolkArt paints. If you still want to use a medium you can probably use the same technique used with Glass & Tile medium. You paint over the area of the candle you're going to paint with the medium, paint your design, then paint over it again with the medium to seal it. That way you don't mix paint and medium. In fact Glass & Tile medium can be used for painting on candles. Here's a little FYI if you enjoy painting candles. This last year Plaid came out with Sparkle Podge in their Modge Podge line. You can paint your design on WITHOUT a medium then use the Sparkle Podge as an all over coat on the entire candle or just over the painted design to seal it. This stuff is so much fun! It leaves a beautiful light irridescent sparkle and like the other Modge Podge products it is not flammable. And of course you can use it for applying decals or decoupage to candles too. I did some angel and floral candles as gifts using the Sparkle Podge and I was very pleased how they turned out. I think the people on the receiving end were too.

lol..omg..no way..really? Oh wow, so you gave up..or you weren't able to remove it? I wonder if there is any hope for me? Last night I put coffee grounds ALL over the inside of the island's cabinet...closed the doors, let it stay overnight..lol In the morning the whole house smelled of coffee.. I vacuumed it out..wiped it down with warm water and OMG I could STILL smell the faint scent of those horrid candles through the coffee ( I hate coffee btw )...so now I have TWO scents that are making me nauseous! lol.. I may try that lemon oil that other person said, or try to find that deactivated charcoal..otherwise I'm going to sand it down and paint it or put some kind of contact paper? I'm at the point I want to toss the island..but I JUST got it and Love it..Damn damn damn! Ugh!! lol

Hi Kathrine. It seems like you are well on your way to a solution already, but I would like to clear some of the fog. First, I would like to address oil and wax finishes. Although they do produce a decent finish, they take forever to cure, they will need to be renewed eventually, and they offer little to no protection (when compared to a film finish). In a kitchen, durability is usually the big concern and pure tung oil simply doesnt have a place there. Now if you have a nice antique hall table that you dont mind babying, tung oil and wax could be a good choice. But with the amazing array of beautiful finish options available today, its hard to believe tung oil (and boiled linseed oil), still find their way into our homes. That being said, I am glad you went with the Waterlox. Despite the incorrect information Minwax gave you, Waterlox is not all that different from a wiping polyurethane. Waterlox actually contains little to no tung oil at all. It does, however, contain a resin that is derived from oil and is a close relative to polyurethane. Many woodworkers like this particular resin better because it is less "plastic-looking" than standard polyurethane. So what you have actually done is exactly what I would have recommended: you top-coated your tung oiled surface with a wiping varnish. This varnish will give your cabinets the protection they need from oil, grease, heat, water, and cleaning agents. A level of protection that tung oil cannot provide. And one note to the folks who were discussing "food-safe" finishes. Nearly all film finishes are food safe once cured. If you are a bit skeptical, there are FDA-approved varnishes available (usually labelled salad bowl finish), that will offer much more protection and durability than oil and wax. I apologize for the blitz of information. If anyone has any questions, please feel free to ask away. Marc