Not looking too good :( Seems there are numerous issues. Talked to Waterlox and they said that over white, they would expect the waterlox to leave an amber look. So my 1st test will be to let the water based white wash stain to fully cure and then coat with waterlox (I like the look of the white so far, it just hasn't been treated with the waterlox. option 2: Oil based stain... so far I have not found any in a white. Lowes carries Cabot and they called them for me and Cabot said they could do it, but it would have a yellow tint! And then top that with the Amber of the waterlox! So that does not sound good. Option 3: white dye... have not found yet. Option 4: maybe find a sealant other than waterlox that I can put over the waterbased white wash? at Woodcraft they recommended General Finish Endura waterbase urethane, but the can said it can leave a yellow tint! Casey...looks like you are right on with the yellowing problem, no matter what I do!! I did see in the CAbot brochure they had a semi transparent blue stain with a washed look.. would this be a similar problem with the yellowing? And then on top of it all , the Woodcraft store was surprised I was using Waterlox at all. They said I should be using "Salad bowl" finish and that it was food safe. I do not plan to chop on it so I think I am ok with waterlox.... just more research needed I guess! If the white can not be done, I will just be waterloxing (or other)!

I'd let it sufficiently cure then sand it down, reprime (you did prime before painting, right?) and then topcoat again. Depending on your skills, you may be able to use a wood chisel to shave the drippy runs off, as well as shaving some of the thicker sections off as well. But you need to not gouge the underlaying wood. What type of ply did you use? for paint grade, I use birch ply. Lesser face grades of ply (BC and below) and rougher wood types (fir, pine, etc) can result in uneveness in the final coat due to the poorer quality veneer telegraphing through film finishes. Don't overload the brush when you paint. Dip it about 1/2" to 1" into the paint, then touch the brush to both sides of the container to take some of the excess paint off the brush. Remember that painting is several thin layers (primer/paint/paint) appplied on top of one another, not one thick coat. Mongo

There is one thing and one thing only that factors into whether or not your white oil based paint will yellow - and that is daylight. For example, a windowless closet that you keep closed. The two sides of the closet door will literally be two different colors. The inside of the door and all the inside trim will yellow due to lack of exposure to beams of daylight. While the outside of the same closet door looks as fresh and crisply white as the day it was painted. It can be difficult to predict what areas painted with an oil base white will yellow because daylight is hard to track - how much do you need to avoid yellowing, once daylight enters through fenestration how far into the space does it reach, ??? etc. What I would like everyone to do is let go of the urban legends about oil based paint because they simply are not true. Today's oil is not like the oil paint of long ago. Every brand, at every price point of oil base paint has the potential to yellow based on the quantity of daylight that falls on it. Oil based paint is no more durable or scrubbable than the top grade modern water based paints. It fact, it can easily be argued that oil is LESS durable than water-based because at a molecular level it is rigid and tight, is not flexible and cracks under duress. Versus modern water-based resins that are flexible and can expand and contract with substrate. I would never, ever, ever in a million years specify oil for an exterior. Ever. My last house was about 4,000 square feet, 10 foot paneled doors, dentil and detailed moldings throughout, blah, blah, blah. All painted with high gloss white oil-based paint. I would never, ever, ever in a million years specify oil for an interior. Ever. :) Yours truly, funcolors P.S. I had to have two sets of French doors repainted before we put that house on the market. The painters sanded so there was zero gloss left, swept and wiped the doors down, and put one coat of acrylic in the same color of white directly over the old oil paint. I literally broke out in hives over their not wanting to prime first. Did not believe it would work or come out okay. Know what? It was fine. Perfectly fine. The water-based bonded to the deglossed oil like a champ.

Most times on this forum I see people ask questions without providing the necessary details to elicit a proper response. This leads to all kinds of comments from people who may only have limited experience on the subject. In general someone building cabinets on site and finishing on-site means it's not a top tier operation espically building them. On-site oil paint finishing, there are exceptions, Christopher Peacock cabinets which we all know are probably the most expensive cabinets out there are calked, filled and hand brushed oil painted on site. They do use one of the most expensive paints FPE (fine paints of Europe) and very experienced skilled painters. This is probably not the case here but without knowing anything more about what they are actually doing and why or what you are expecting for what you are paying I would get some answers before going any further.