We just had 2 bathroom sinks like Mr_Garden's installed, one each in our 2 bathrooms. They have a slightly negative reveal. The same granite guys did our kitchen sink 3 years ago with the flush mount that I prefer. When I asked they said that the lip tends to be finished only just a bit past the downside curve, so even a flush mount leaves a bit of the unfinished lip showing. They also said that the newer sinks they get seem to have even more scantily finished lips that the ones they got last year.

We have 2 undermount sinks...the large Franke Pro 30" and the smaller Franke 12" prep sink. The Pro is huge, deep (you can bathe a dog in it, LOL), and has a square profile, with barely rounded corners. The prep sink is small, square, with widely rounded corners. I do think the brackets take a certain amount of space. Our 30" sink is in a 33" base cab. Your cabinet manufacturer can determine if you have sufficient space for each brand of sink you are considering. That's part of their job. Undermounting is super strong. Do not worry about a heavy turkey making the sink fall thru. A slight reveal (which is pretty standard) actually finishes the installation nicely. Gives you a smooth looking sink/counter joint. However, it does collect food and dirt over time, but is easily cleaned. For our bathroom sinks, we had no reveal. Easier to keep clean, and no place for toothepaste and shaved hairs to collect. As for depth of sink...our Pro is 11" deep, the prep is 6". Both function well for their purposes. I find I use the prep sink a lot...water doesn't splash everywhere, I use that faucet to fill saucepans (the main sink for the pasta pot), etc. I did put Insinkerators in both sinks. And at 12" wide, it's certainly large enough to use a colander. I cannot speak for the Kindred sinks...and would be loathe to buy any sink without at least seeing and touching it in person. What you want to know is the guage of the stainless steel used...thicker is better. And when you template and install your countertops, if you use granite or quartz, you have to have the sinks on hand at the job site. Your fabricator will need to take the sinks with him back to the factory...they are templated and installed there, then returned with the countertops for final installation.

A negative reveal might be better for hiding imperfections in a handmade sink, like the Shaw's farm sink. If your top lip is especially wavy, or slanted (as mine is), then a negative reveal will hide that better. (But lots of people have Shaw's with postivie reveals. Mine is too wonky.) Regarding negative vs zero reveal, with a zero reveal, one will see the caulk, right? So that may or may not be an issue for someone. I prefer not to see the caulk, so I prefer even a tiny negative reveal (like 1/16th-1/8th). Regarding the question about why an undermount sink has to sit lower than the counter. The easiest answer is because that is the definition of "undermount." :-) There is also an "upmount" style where it sits above the counter. And there is a "flushmount" where the counter and sink are on the same level. But some of these styles can probably only be done with a farm style sink that sits on a base, and needs no support from above. Francy

Not advised to create a ledge. You physically can, but now you depend on silicon to keep things water tight. If you keep a zero reveal or an overhang, then water is less likely to accumulate on the sink flange (Which is used to create the ledge). The silicone then can stay intact longer, and not be needed as the primary water guard. Often the biggest problem we see with ledge sinks is with the installation. Some issues we have been told is with accessories not fitting. However, this is easily avoidable with two best practices: 1. The fabricator should always follow the template 2. Once the hole is cut for the sink, dry fit the accessories to ensure smooth sailing from the client. If you like ledge sinks then check this new release: Kraus Kore