Check with your local planning department. With 10" ducting, you definitely need a roof jack that doesn't constrict air flow. The standard Vent-A-Hood recommended roof jack is fairly low profile. It seems unlikely that it wouldn't comply with your local wind resistance standards. Are you sure it's not just your roofer's resistance to using something different from what he usually installs? It's a pretty sure bet that yours isn't the only house in Miami-Dade County with a 900 cfm Vent-A-Hood.

We don't have a BS hood (VAH), but their instructions were to install a mounting strip across the studs and then screw the hood into that. I used a 1x6 with the top corners at either end cut off (due to pyramid shape). This strip is screwed to the studs over the drywall and then our backsplash is tiled around it (and up to ceiling). The hood sits about 1/4" off the backsplash as a result. You really cant' tell unless you look very close. Not sure what you're shooting for, but you might want to install your strip (or blocking between studs) and then drywall around/over it if you want the hood flush against the drywall. Doing something like this would give you the most flexibility to pre-drill the holes in the hood, then get it up and leveled before putting the screws in. Less worrying about hitting a stud under pressure.

If your hood is on an outside wall, your not going to want to protrude through the roof too close to an overhang, especially if you are in cold country with ice dam concerns.You would have to elbow up to a higher location.In our area,a fire stop is required where the ducting enters the cieling/attic with any framing required to be 2" away from the duct.A fire stop is a sheet metal jack that accepts the ducting in the center.The fire stop is attached in your attic to cieling joists or blocking or both.The fire stop isn't so much for heat,as hoods aren't high heat,but are required to slow fire through penetrations.Your roof sheathing should be cut 2" larger than the ducting as well. The roof jack will easily cover that. A t-top roof jack is simply a jack that has a horizontal "hood" that keeps water out of the jack/ducting. You are going to want to study how other vents on your roof were flashed as well concerning your roofing, as an improper flashed jack is a guaranteed leak.If you use foil tape on the seams of your ducting,(my choice), make sure it is rated for heat.Good luck on your project! You might want to check in with your local yocals for venting requirements in your area. That's what they are there for and is a safer bet.

You don't need a roofer if they vent goes out through the wall. That said, the first difficulty is where you can or cannot hang the hood as the joists in the ceiling may be in the way and you have to offset from your desired location. You can open up the ceiling in the space where the duct will run and see if there is wiring and plumbing that gets in the way. You can do as much as you feel competent enough to do. Let me say that refinishing flat drywall is a PITA.