Lindac- I'll check to see if we have a Service Master here. Mboston- I just sold my microfiber set- it cleaned up like a dream. Everything just wiped right off. To add to the spots, 2yr old DD is sick and vomited on a cushion this morning so any advice to get rid of that smell would be greatly appreciated. I cleaned up the cushion with a damp towel and it isn't bringing out any more dirt, but I can still smell it. I thought of using febreeze but i'm afraid it will make it worse.

Thanks for all the suggestions and compliments! When I first heard the price to reupholster, I didn't think it was too bad, but after reading some responses here decided to pursue another option. I'm glad I did! My ex works for a large organization that also has a commercial reupholstery business and they are going to do it for me for COST! Probably between $200-300! (Glad ex and I are still friends!). Plus I can get my own fabric, and there's a huge decorator wholesale place nearby that I'll check out. Only problem with the company is that it will take probably 3-4 months to get the job done, but that's fine because I can spend the time looking for fabric. Someone asked about the broken leg--yes I do have it and it is now back on the sofa (frame was just refinished/repaired). Some people also suggested I try to keep the existing fabric--well, it really looks pretty bad in person and it's got a real 80's seafoam green thing going on. I'm really looking for a very light neutral. Twizzis, I'm leaning towards finding a different fabric I can railroad or doing the three section thing. Regarding the down-wrapped cushion--is that what is standard? I have no idea, and hadn't even proposed a down cushion to the upholsterer yet. Any idea how much more expensive a down cushion makes things? You know, I was prepared to spend quite a bit of money to get this sofa restored to its glory days. I just absolutely love it, and know that I couldn't possibly find anything like this new for less than. . .well, thousands. So I'm just delighted that I can do this inexpensively and now have more to spend getting the rest of the room in order. I'm open to any of your ideas on fabric selections. My style is traditional/english/french country and I need it to work the chair I posted. Thanks again!

I think it's worth having your home professionally cleaned before putting in on the market. In my case, I had a wonderful cleaning service once a week for the 10 years we had lived in our old house (built new, so they were there practically from day one) so it was very well maintained. However, when we moved out, obviously that stopped. Then we had the floors refinished and the dust was un-friggin-believable, so we hired a service to do a deep "move out" cleaning. If you've had RE agents in to assess your home to set a selling price and they've told you to have it professionally cleaned, no offense, but that's a nice way of them saying that you're missing things that they consider important when people are viewing your home as potential buyers. That is TOTALLY different than having friends in for coffee! Some things that come quickly to mind that you may be missing are: windows, window ledges (inside and between the glass and screen), tops of doorjambs, door hinges (where the graphite collects) baseboards, shoemold, cabinet fronts, top of the fridge, behind the toilets, grout in tile floors and/or shower walls. That said, you would need to let the cleaning service know that you want a "deep cleaning", not just a regular maintenance cleaning. And be specific about the things you want done. This is usually double the price of a regular cleaning, but (imo) worth it. Good Luck!

OK, lets go at it piecemeal. What is the width of the range? Is it electric coil, gas, or induction? If installed, or if there is a fixed installation plan, what is the spacing of the upper cabinets on the sides of the range? With respect to air flow: There are several commonly used rules of thumb, one of which is based on total potential BTUs. The BTU method is an indirect method of estimation of needed flow rate, and doesn't account for how well the hood overlaps the range. I prefer the more physical approach based on the needs of capture and containment (what hoods are supposed to do). Capture efficiency depend on how well the hood aperture overlaps the rising and expanding cooking plume (effluent). Containment efficiency is determined by how well the hood air flow through its baffles (or mesh filters) keeps the plume from reflecting out of the hood when it hits the sheet metal baffles or mesh structures. A generally sufficient air velocity is 90 ft/min for gas cooking; induction cooking may allow one to get away with a bit less as it doesn't have a gas combustion plume adding velocity to the cooking plume. Electric coil plume velocities may be in between; the lab measurements that I've seen published don't include coil cooking measurements. (Gas cooking can cause the central part of the rising plume to reach 1.2 m/s.) The necessary air velocity has to exist over the entire hood aperture; we don't get to block off portions of the aperture that we are not cooking under. The aperture has some area -- more if there is good overlap of the plume expansion. Hence I suggest 90 CFM/square foot of aperture to get 90 ft/min everywhere. (You may notice that this is about half of the uprising velocity. We don't need to equal it, only keep it from reversing while the baffle aerodynamics take control of it. Baffle design and mesh flow effects may vary how well a given average air velocity works. I know that around 90 ft/min works for me when induction wok cooking, and that Greenheck suggests for similar cooking a value of 85 ft/min for their commercial hoods. There are types of commercial cooking that call for considerably more velocity, such as grilling, but this is not in the scope of our present discussion.) Ideally, to get good capture to make use of this containment, the hood has to overlap the locus of hot pan bases by about 10 degrees half angle. From this another rule of thumb has arisen that suggests overlapping the cooktop by 3 inches on the sides and front. This overlap is probably too optimistic for some searing or wokking, but many here have reported good capture with this size. For a 30-inch range, this would require a 36-inch wide by 27-inch deep hood. You may not have room for this, or you may wish to depend on the side cabinets to channel the effluent from rear burners and cook the greasiest stuff there. So for a 30-inch range, the minimum hood would probably be 30 inches wide by 24 inches deep (front to back). I suspect for most 20 inches deep is too short. As you may appreciate, the larger hood thus has higher total air flow requirements than the smaller hood, costs more, and requires more make-up air. So you may also appreciate that this aspect of performance alone is in conflict with affordability for a given level of aesthetic design. Wait until we get into make-up air issues. kas