Help! Oil paint still tacky after 20 hrs! URGENT!!
sweeterthanhoney
16 years ago
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raygunclan
16 years agosweeterthanhoney
16 years agoRelated Discussions
Landscaping after Mudslide... please help
Comments (14)A clarification is in order. The height difference is probably 15'; the 30' is the front to back dimension. The soil is a clay called "Dakota shale". It is inherently unstable. The house was built in the 1880's and remodeled several times. The seepage from the hill behind is never going to be eliminated. My daughter is a soils engineer. We have had two rains-of-the-century in the past 5 years. It held up well to the second one, since our handiwork. I am not seeking an erudite lecture on the multitudinous risks from the Yardvaark, but rather aesthetic suggestions from friendlies. This is my first posting (I believe) on Gardenweb. I have enjoyed reading many things here. Various opinions abound. I am primarily focused on vegetable gardening in SE Minnesota, but this is a(n aesthetic) topic of great interest to both my wife and I. A Buddha figurine arrived for Xmas, which we are expecting to put outside in the "garden" when we have it more finished. Zone 4 temperatures in winter (-20 F) limit our choices in planting. This spot will receive 6-8 hrs of sunlight in the summer. There is no topsoil yet. Wild raspberries and whatnot have healed the scars at the edge and are draping inwards. We have basically an unlimited amount of trees (dead or Boxelder volunteers to be thinned out) which perhaps we could use as a sort of Hugelkulture (sp?) base over fabric. Vin49-- Yes! I was thinking of some kind of Junipers in the two barrels? I can get more Limestone, too....See MoreWhen to quit on a Honda HR214?
Comments (52)mark, i'm a big fan of the old hondas. i've never had a problem with grass building up to a point it stops the engine. are your wheels raised to the highest level? when the grass is extra tall, what i do is take a bungee cord and attach it so the rear door is open and the grass just shoots out, be careful not to be running over foreign objects. wear sturdy pants and safety glasses. you can clamp a mat or something to the cross bar on the handle to deflect the clippings. if you're bagging, make sure your bag is clean....See MoreReapplying Cabot Australian Timber Oil
Comments (7)Hi Marty, I'll be checking the can this week and get back to you - once all the tornadoes, cicadas, and storms pass. I also plan on posting a few pics as well. I'll post what cabot we originally used (have to go to the basement and dig it out to see), and the condition 3-4 yrs later. We also have a large patch job from a tree removed from the middle of the deck patched with new lumber (same as the original - treated white pine). We also used Mahogany Flame which was gorgeous when first applied - and frankly -- not so bad right now either. I'd like to post some pics of the re-application too to give a good view of the results....See MoreHelp! I need to patch this b4 DH gets home!
Comments (16)My uncle says it doesn't look like water penetration, but since it's going to rain tomorrow I'll wait to see before I fix it. Now, he said don't cut through and remove the back of the sheet that's there b/c the vapor barrier is right on the other side? I always thought vapor barrier was over insulation and sheathing. Maybe he was talking about the paper on the drywall being "treated" and not the Tyvek? Do they make special drywall for exterior walls? Also, I never sealed under the windows after the new stool was put in. I pulled out the builder's fiberglas and used low-expansion foam around the windows before we put the finished casing up. I was wondering if I could just fill the hole with the same stuff, since it's toolable (is that a word?) and then either mud over it (don't fill all the way), or tape and mud. The DAP stuff is paintable but it would likely be a different sheen/texture than the surrounding wall so I wouldn't just use that - it would have to be skimmed with mud. But I was thinking it would be easier to apply as a backer material to fill the 1/2" deep hole than the setting compound, and I'm not comfortable with just taping and mudding over the hole with no insulation or backer under (not that the original gypsum is a great insulator, but it's better than air). I'm afraid my patch would sink like the original paper did if I leave a void behind it....See Moresweeterthanhoney
16 years agoFaron79
16 years agoArapaho-Rd
16 years agopaintguy22
16 years agorichardkittyhawk
16 years agosweeterthanhoney
16 years agoHU-407501577
5 years agoMimi Carkin
3 years agoPatricia Colwell Consulting
3 years ago
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