Kitchen Sinks and Sinks and Sinks ...
NQuisitiveBlonde
10 years ago
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10 years agosjhockeyfan325
10 years agoRelated Discussions
Kitchen layout - single sink vs. main sink + prep sink
Comments (21)Green Designs came up with a great plan, as usual. It's very similar to my new kitchen. The aisle between my 9' island with prep sink and the rangetop wall is about 42" counter to counter. Its perfect. I've had much larger aisles and hated them. In fact, that's one of the reasons I reno'd my old kitchen. I'm the sole cook in my kitchen 99% of the time, and I would never, ever, ever give up my prep sink. Ever. I love having a large prep zone with a dedicated water source that I don't have to share with the cleanup zone. I'm usually the one who does the dishes too, but when DH occasionally does that when I'm cooking, he can do it out of my way. This kitchen is my first experience with separate prep and cleanup sinks, but it has changed my cooking habits and way of looking at things in the kitchen. You will not use the sink on the perimeter to prep the way you laid out the space. It's not convenient for daily prep. It is a great place for a cleanup sink. Being over on the side like that, your dirty dishes won't show much. Mine don't. Between the giant single basin cleanup sink and the perimeter location, the few dirty dishes waiting on the counter for the DW don't both my OCDness very much. And as you can see, my kitchen is open or at least semi-open to all the other rooms in the house and to the front door. I much prefer an island being all one height rather than bi-level. Your first inspiration pic island is one height. At one level, you can spread out for large baking/cooking projects and for school, sewing or crafting projects. A large kitchen doesn't have to have wasted space. It just needs to be laid out correctly so you have the right amount of space in the right zones. I agree with everything Holly said. I think you could have a great kitchen here!...See MoreNew kitchen Sink. Blanco or Nantucket Sinks brand??
Comments (12)Well after living with my Nantucket for awhile i do have a few other thoughts. The mirror finish scratches like crazy. We are so careful but somehow it has quite a few scratches around the drain already. Also hard water is a big deal. We have to wipe it down completely and if the feet of the rack are not completely dry they will leave water marks that are very hard to remove. It’s a lot of upkeep. We dry it out after dinner and don't use it again until next meal. i find myself pouring out water glasses in the bathroom. It’s really attractive and I especially like the folding rack that sits on the top ledge but do you really want this kind of upkeep in a sink? If you have a softening system it’s probably not an issue....See MoreHot Water Heater Size Based on Shower Fixtures
Comments (5)A couple of things: You have your stored hot water waiting to be used, and you have the heater's recovery rate, how quickly it can replenish the hot water that's been taken from your tank. First thing I'd check? The temperature setting of your water heater. Let's play "for example". There will be a lot of generalities and assumptions in this game. First, the Triangle Tube is a good indirect tank. I've had one in my house for 20 years. Never had a problem. But indirect tanks are only as good as the water coming in from the boiler and the temperature that the TT itself is set at. If your TT t-stat is set at 110 degrees then you're using 90% hot water and 10% cold water to get your 104 degree water out of the shower heads. You'll theoretically run out of hot water in 14 minutes. If your TT is set at 130 degrees, you'll use about two-thirds hot and one-third cold. Theoretically you'll get about a 20 minute shower. Those examples are with no recovery from the boiler. For recovery, check the water temp out of the boiler. There's usually a temperature gauge on the front of the boiler. If your boiler is set to a low temp (140, for example) your recovery will lag. It'll be faster at 180, 200, etc. Those numbers are for a standard boiler. If you have a condensing boiler the operating temp can be much lower. The hot water pipes from the boiler to the TT and the pipes from the TT to the bathroom should be insulated. That'll minimize standby losses to the basement from the plumbing itself. I prefer foam insulation. Comes in 6' lengths, is slit along the length, and has adhesive on the slit. Every little bit helps. If you don't find anything out of the ordinary, definitely have someone come back and take a look....See MoreDo you all like your kitchen's built-in soap dispenser?
Comments (22)Hm, sounds like Shannon_WI has the ticket! Since you *have* to have an air gap for inspection, you *have* to have a hole for that, right? Once inspection is over, you can choose to replace the air gap with a dispenser if your dishwasher has a high loop installed (as Shannon_WI said) or if you want to keep the air gap, you can get a combo air gap and soap dispenser. While it's usually possible to drill holes after installation (though definitely dusty messy and not to be preferred!), it's impossible to un-drill a hole. Yes, there are little plugs that can be put in but those are sure not as attractive as your beautiful stone countertop. I have had a Never Empty that I got a lot of exercise from because I had to pump pump pump to get any soap from it. I have had a top-fill dispenser that, no matter what I tried including long straws, would get air bubbles while filling that caused the soap to overflow onto the sink and counter. These could easily just be my personal soap deficiencies so YMMV! I currently have a soap/dish soap/ lotion triumvirate from Williams-Sonoma that I can refill as I like, doesn't fall over, and always works. Winner for my very particular (lack of soap-dispenser-filling) set of skills!...See MoreKari Nielsen
4 years agoMiranda33
4 years agolast modified: 4 years agoKari Nielsen
3 years agoJoseph Corlett, LLC
3 years agoKari Nielsen
3 years ago
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