Kenzie you have the perfect kitchen for hand-painting kitchen cabinets. You are going to be amazed at the improvement if you follow Christopher's directions. Just don't skip any steps and take your time :). You will see a little grain since your cabinets are oak, but that helps eliminate the look of brush marks also. I am one of those people who don't mind seeing the grain of oak - at least they look like real wood. I have one question for Christoper: How does the BM Impervo and Advance compare to SW Pro-Classic as far as ease of applying?? My reason for asking is that I have used the Pro-Classic on a vanity and was very impressed with the quality of the finished product - just would like to know for future projects.

"The reliabiltiy of your recomendations just suffered pretty badly if you cannot recognize advertising BS ("very thin because they use formulated with microscopic resins") from reality. Resins are liquids in a solvent. Not solids." Sticking up for MichaelÂs reliability and to correct your fallacy. The resin may be introduced as a liquid, but they do contain solids. A latex resin in a paint formulation for example may contain 50 to 60 or so percent solids, which contributes to the bottom line in a solids calculation. "The solvent content determines how thick the paint is, not the use of "microscopic resins". The resin is individual molecules in a carrier solvent." Nanosphere, ie microscopic resins and colloidal chemistry in both the pigments and the resin can be used to reduce or enhance the thickness and viscosity of the final liquid paint product without regard to solvent content. Just because you donÂt understand the science of formulating with chemistry doesnÂt mean its advertising BS. Just to be simplistic, I can have two pans of beef broth on the stove. Throw just a bit of flour into one and voila itÂs thick and it is in little way different in terms of solvent content compared to the other. In regards to the recommendation to add Floetrol to existing paint. What does this do to the overall chemistry of the paint in terms of durability, VOC emissions, etc?

The painter I hired to paint our kitchen cabinets suggested this paint. I was not very impressed. The first night that I came home after he had worked, I noticed tons of runs and drips under the chair rail on the wainscoting. He looked at it with me the next day and said it was a problem with the paint, it was "drooping". He bought another gallon, same stuff, it did the same thing. Finally, with lots of care (and sanding off the drips and repainting), he did get a pretty good result, but given how much all of this cost, I was disappointed. Now that it is dry and we've been living with it for about 9 months, I have found that it chips pretty easily, and have had to do many touchups. To be fair, these surfaces were previously painted, so I don't know if this is a result of the new paint or the bond to the old (he did use XIM sealer/primer as the first coat). I used the leftovers to paint a few bookcases and trim in another room and I found the odor from the paint to be overwhelming. It made it hard for me to breathe. It is super thick, and hard to smooth. It does have a warranty, and I was tempted to take it back to SW, but with all of the labor costs I'd already paid, getting back $40 for the material didn't really seem worth it. Just a contrary opinion. Sounds like the previous poster really liked it - maybe I just got part of a bad batch?

Sherwin Willams Pro- Classic does get good reviews, and I have read of many that do use it for cabinets. I think it would be a fine choice. Read through the links articles below to get more information. https://dengarden.com/home-improvement/Sherwin-Williams-Pro-Classic-Paint-Review https://www.hometalk.com/3173018/q-sw-s-proclassic-vs-bm-s-advance I would not go with anyone that insists on using a "proprietary" paint.