I just posted a question about using shellac in a bathroom (original finish), so it will be interesting to see what advice you are given. I picked up a high solids floor finish from the local janitorial supply place today that I may try out on top of the shellac to keep the water from damaging the finish. We love the wood look but want to protect it at the same time.

I had a bathroom project a while ago, I took up the laminate and put down tile. After the laminate came up, the whole floor was covered with the glue they use when laying it, it was like hard plastic. I had at the time researched some ways/products to use and came up with KRUD KUTTER, I know you can get it at either Home D or Lowes and I think you can even now get it at Wally world. I used it full strength, poured it on, left it (dont remember how long) came back with a putty knife and it was all gooey and soft, came right up.. I wouldn't have believed it if I hadn't seen it with my own eyes. another example of what I've used it for. I had a perpetual haze on my laminate wood floors (most likely from a build up of cleaning products etc. caught one cleaning lady using mop and glow on it, ugh) anyway, it would never stay shiny and clean looking. I had tried several things and finally tried the KK, again, full stength but I didn't leave it very long. came back with a plastic spatula/turner and literally scarped off a yellow film. It did not appear to hurt my floors, and the haze was forever gone, (now I only use vinegar and water). Might be worth a try? Well, I dont know if it can hurt to try it, Disclaimer: I have no affiliation with this product and have no information on how it might work or affect your floors :) I think it's a great product with many uses and just thought I'd mention it.

"pore filler" is a very different animal than typical wood fillers for holes and defects. Pore-O-Pac is Behlan's name for their paste wood grain filler. It is very fine silica in a binder and used to fill the actual wood pores in woods like oak to produce a smooth surface. If they used grain filler the entire surface should be covered, not just parts. If they used a wood filler for holes and defects they are ALL notorious for not taking stain the same as the surrounding wood. Like glue spills they prevent stains and dyes from penetrating uniformly and producing a uniform color. Sanding the finish off and then using a colored top coat is probably the most effective way of fixing the problem. Just avoid polyshades. The pigments settle out even as you are applying the stuff producing uneven color, and vigorous shaking or stirring can produce bubbles that affect the final finish.

Well, it's done. Not perfect, but good enough for the out of the way location. I went to HD and bought Minwax Wood Putty, highly recommended by HD guy in the aisle, and Elmer's Wood Filler (stainable), recommended by gal in the paint department. I have a sample of my vanity wood, although it's slightly lighter than how my vanity arrived (natch). The wood putty was easy to use, but honestly, it's way too impermanent texture wise, like modeling clay. I filled some similarly sized holes I made in the sample and the next day poked them out with an awl. It also has an oil component that tends to leach out. I ended up using the wood filler. It has a slightly rough texture so I originally planned to overfill and then gently sand down till it was smooth and flush. I figured a circle of blue tape would perfectly protect the surrounding surface. Well, it does, but the filler doesn't come out flush enough. I have two mahogany stain pens, one a little too light, and the other a little too dark. Of course. Finally, I was annoyed with my tests. I took off the protective blue tape, grabbed a plastic credit card, stuck the little pointy tube of the Elmer's into the two holes and filled 'em up like jelly donuts. I futzed with the stain and decided I'm probably the only one who will ever notice these patches. I am really, really glad these weren't on the front of the vanity.