Moonkat, wow, it looks like you're making just great headway. I hope you're not overdoing it as I know overhead work is hard on you, especially on the neck. Ouch! If you have one of those seed-filled u-shaped neck pillows, you can put it in the microwave (for 1-2 mins, no more) just before bed and fall asleep with it wrapped around your neck. Yum. I do that every night all winter long. I'm so happy you got a sander you really like. The right tools make a huge difference to getting the job done -- or even wanting to. Hmmm... I ordered on the 26th, and the due date is "January 30, 2009 - February 4, 2009." I ordered through amazon.com but it's coming from the same place yours did. I am eager to see it - lol. ~~ Laurie, yes you can buy a kit (from http://www.elitetrimworks.com/home.php) but I was just doing my own thing and sort of copying the photo. I have a chop saw and I really like it, though I'm super careful with it because it could take off a finger in a blink. ~~ Helene, oh you did wallpaper over it. I am hoping after my mudding and sanding that my walls will be fine under the wallpaper. But I don't think they're good enough to do that other kind of panelling with the little boxes, at least not yet. The longer wall got super torn up from removing those boards. I like the idea of doing it horizontally. that could save time, too. I'll keep it in mind. ~~ Well, everyone, I am trying to decide if I can make the walls look good enough with the beadboard wallpaper, since the other way is so much work and I'm wearing out. What do you think? If you had a split entry, would you do beadboard panelling on the walls? Or opt for something more formal at your entry?

I wish you would've come to where I work!! Sorry...but every molecule of that Silicone has got to go. * There are some SILICONE caulk removers out there. Check at hardware stores, etc. * They MAY cost more than the initial caulk did, so prepare yourself! * It takes time to break-down silicone too. Cut out what you can so that "breakdown" process goes quick. * Lastly, use rubbing-alcohol to get all remaining residues off, and dried-out. FINALLY....ready to use paintable caulking!! * I like Polyseam-seal. * Allow enough cure-time before painting over.... * I caulk all vertical inside corners too. It just makes corners look more finished...especially if your corners aren't that great. * I often caulk horizontally along ceiling-line too, on top of baseboards, and along vertical wood door-trim. MUCH nicer detail look when ya do that!! Faron

Agree that the seam should not have a gap in it. This can happen when not enough glue is on edges or mismatching. Make sure when you are laying on the paper that you push outward on the seams for the glue to gather there. Wallpaper is usually a bit stretchable and the seams can be set together without being seen. Wallpapering such a small vertical area would be easy to try with a roll, take note of the process, results, etc.. And easy to remove if it looked too fake...oops...faux. Also, as said, wallpaper in past was sold in double rolls and the sq. ft. is listed for coverage, not linear ft. I can't remember if the coverage is noted depending upon a pattern repeat or not. With beadboard there would not be a pattern repeat. The only issue with this paper is what Lov mentioned. The paper is a raised foam material, laying down and rubbing horizontal could show after the fact. Am wondering though if it bounces back to original pattern. There are many textures offered in this foam product and haven't heard of anyone having problems with it. Or if the wallpapering process is the same as for smooth. I think the paper also needs wood trim wherever it stops for a nice finish. Even where the wallpaper and counter meet. You wouldn't have to worry about a perfect cut, let the trim cover it. Plus a thin line of caulk to seal bottom and top. Specifically if used near water. On the blog I noticed they had not painted the undersides of the cupboards. Would be interested in hearing from those using this if it is the same wallpaper process...I always used a damp towel to go over for good attachment and smooth finish. With a flat plastic edger on the seams to push glue for better adhesion. The resilience for long term use....Will it retain shape if cleaned off in the future too. As much as I like beadboard, there is an ongoing need to keep clean in the crevices. And how workable the glue is. And how to finish the underside of cabinets. For a backsplash I feel staying with wood is a better option. Ceilings wouldn't have the water exposure, furniture and walls less abuse. Although I did get a fleeting idea of doing the side of my fridge to match the wood wall finish. Easy to remove if it looked stupid.

@ paintguy, I'd agree that the mistake should not have been made, however, everyone makes mistakes from time to time. Maybe there was a new guy on the crew that was trying to be ambitious but used the wrong caulk, who knows. That said, unless specified contractually, the methods used to achieve the final product as advertised and paid for are at the discretion of the contractor, provided that they do not step outside the boundaries of industry standard practices. I'd strongly agree that some discussion between contractor and homeowner would be advisable here to determine to pros and cons of each approach, however most times the contractor does have the "right to cure" at his or her discretion when it comes to methods... The best case scenario of course is when both the contractor and homeowner agree on the best solution to fix an issue, which in my experience actually happens more often than not when dealing with a reputable company.... Now if you paid this guy cash under the table and he was pounding PBR's while he installed your windows on a Sunday, that all goes out the window!