Believe it or not I got Ducher instead of Duchess of Brabant last week. That is really funny. Same exact problem but, I got mine from Chamblee's. Luckily, I noticed it 2 days later when I was planting it. I called them right up and they apologized and sent me my Duchess on Monday. It should be here by Thursday. The best part was they told me to keep Dutcher. Of course, being that they were sending another order, I had to add to it. It must be a label thing as when I first opened the Box and looked at all the Labels I didn't notice it either. I think we both got lucky as I've done some homework on Dutcher and think we'll grow to like him. Dan

Forgot to add that it's a Night-blooming Cereus type, either Epiphyllum hookeri (syn. E. stenopetalum) or Epiphyllum oxypetalum (commonly called Queen of the Night). A picture will determine which... E. hookeri is unscented and has a carmine-colored style while E. oxypetalum is divinely fragrant and has a white style.

DM Roberts, did you read any of the previous comments? All of the popular garden/flavored mints (as well as most wild varieties) grow very aggressively via the roots or stolons. And can spread a great distance. However, different types of mint do not always grow with the same degree of vigor so your cocolate mint simply outgrew the peppermint and took over. From Wikipedia: Mints are aromatic, almost exclusively perennial herbs. They have wide-spreading underground and overground stolons and erect, square branched stems. Mints will grow 10–120 cm (4–47 in) tall and can spread over an indeterminate area. Due to their tendency to spread unchecked, some mints are considered invasive.

Never water Haworthia in the hottest months of July and August …yes it seems counterintuitive but that is their rest period (they are summer dormant during the hottest months so they will not uptake a lot of water, so if you are watering during this time you risk rot) ….if the leaves start to curl during that time, that is a sign of dehydration… you CAN give a VERY light rim watering with a squirt bottle just along the rim of the pot but nothing more. and i mean very light - you do not want to saturate the pot …. if you are growing indoors I can tell you every two weeks is way too much water for a haworthia … their roots take up water slowly so how they look today is how they felt a week ago …in other words, if you water today you will see the results in about a week. keep them out of direct sun in july and august too, just bright indirect light, in september you can move them to a sunnier position with either morning or afternoon sun. Mine love morning sun (limifolia, fasciata) some do better in indirect bright light water less in winter, but remember these are summer dormant I have haworthia Tessulata, Limifolia, Fasciata, Turgida and coarctata i have never had tips of haworthia die off, I dont know what thats about unless you are talking about dehydration a dehydrated haworthia depending on the variety will have leaves that curl inward a hydrated one with have fat plump leaves, no concave surface when you do resume watering in September you can do a full water flush but your potting media should be such that it allows water to drain out the pot immediately. reasons for browning are explained here: https://youtu.be/-t_vrKoxIsU?si=HiehESbD3hs8gI6R