Sorry! I should've stated that better! You can topcoat most primers in 2-3 hrs. Dont' leave a primer unpainted for more than a month. They get too dried-out and brittle. I should've said... >>> Once the primer and paint are applied, the adhesion process of all coats takes a while! You don't need to sand out ALL the gloss. * Just a moderate "dulling" of the existing sheen. * It's subjective...but I'd keep sanding if I could easily see a reflection. * I'd maybe drop down to 100-grit for the 1st pass. Then, a quick 2nd-pass with ~150-grit. * If you're near a C2 dealer, the C2-SAP (Sandable-Acrylic-Primer) is great for this kinda work. This is neat for REAL fussy applications. After priming, this primer sands nicely for extra-smooth topcoats. Faron

For what it's worth, we've had regular (not "High Gloss Trim & Door") Glidden paint on most of the interior and all of the exterior of our home for over 11 years and it's held up very nicely. We used the semi-gloss finish on our upstairs trim and doors. Most of it was sprayed on (not brushed) by our builder's contractors, though we've brushed the semi-gloss onto crown moulding and bead board we added about 8 years ago and painted walls/ceilings ourselves with eggshell/flat. I don't see a quality difference between the walls we've painted ourselves with Glidden vs. those we've painted with Sherwin Williams or Ben Moore's Aura and Regal paints. I don't have an allegiance to one brand of paint and am VERY picky about color, so choose brand depending on which color I like best for a space. I happen to like a lot of Glidden's colors which is why I have a lot of experience with their paints. I think all high-gloss paints are difficult to roll on and get a perfect finish, so wouldn't necessarily blame it on the brand... My husband stained and finished all of our downstairs wood work and doors and originally tried to use a high-gloss clear coat over the stain (I don't remember the brand-- not Glidden though), but decided to switch to a satin clear coat because it was so much easier to apply and get an even finish. The areas where he first applied the high-gloss clear coat (and then went over them later with the satin) don't look as nice as those with just the satin clear coat. He did remove all the doors to finish them horizontally (not the trim work and built-ins).

Some woods do that, you need to harden the surface to sand it smooth. I often use a thinned coating of shellac to do this (~1 lb cut) because it dries very fast, sands easily, and is compatible with all the surface coatings I use. Your spray lacquer should serve the same purpose. Apply a thin coat, let dry thoroughly, then sand with fine paper (220-300 or higher. For best results you want to sand and thoroughly clean the surface between coats, being careful not to sand through previous coat as you build the finish. For a mirror-like finish people generally wet sand with 400-600 grit paper between coats then polish with pumice and rottenstone or automotive polishing compounds at the end. Getting a perfect high gloss takes some practice.

I have a steam shower and when I open my shower door lots of steam comes into the bathroom. I have never had a mold issue or any staining on my ceiling and I always paint my ceilings flat. My house is 15 years old, too. I would go all flat ceilings in your house, eggshell on the walls, and semi gloss for moldings and trim. Also, satin is also pretty on trim. The “in” thing for paint is low sheen! Everyone wants a flat look. Even the front door most paint experts want you to paint your front door satin.