Thank you all--thank you, needanap, for the threads--I did an Advantium search and read till my eyes crossed but there was so much I guess I didn't get to those. Alku, I think I want/need (which? LOL) a WD because the other ovens will be in use for other things, and also I don't want to use an oven with a cooling fan just to keep things warm. THe noise on my current ovens drives me nuts. Very good point on heating up the interior of the Advantium... I am sort of thinking that the Adv. sounds way cool and I would like my second oven to be smaller anyway. I very rarely need two full size ovens. If I get this combo and decide after a while that we REALLY need a regular micro then I could always get a small inexpensive one. I am trying to leave a couple of potential nooks for one just in case. Raynag--good luck!! I went and saw some Monogram ovens in person today and they sure are pretty.

I love this subject. As much as I love the look and performance concept of two ovens, I can't commit the space or resources. Here is what we are doing: 1 wall oven (probably monogram) 1 krups fbc-4 toaster oven (there are many reviews on amazon) 1 microwave, plain for now, but may upgrade to panasonic genius prestige convection microwave based on needs. 1 solar oven (not sure what model yet) Why am I doing this? Like many people, once in a while I could really use two ovens, but it's not a frequent need. My toaster, which I love, has a convection oven feature that works well. It does great brownies, pies, and small cakes/side dishes. It fits my largest diameter (10.5 inch o.d.) pie dish easily. The rectangular inner dimensions are 12" w x 11" d, with nearly an inch bumpout in depth in the back, but I would leave that open for air flow. Anyway, what I learned this thanksgiving (I never paid attention before because I wasn't designing a kitchen) is that the turkey and the pies bake at vastly different temperatures, so I did need another oven for the holiday. But, the toaster oven fit the bill. I figured, if I could make it through thanksgiving on this setup, I could get through just about anything that might come my way. So, I am going with this combo. As the years go by and the number of bakers in my kitchen grow, I can upgrade my microwave to a convection unit if necessary too, but since I'm doing freestanding, I won't have to change my cabinets. I just wanted to mention the toaster oven, because when you're using it as an additional oven, you still get the use of your microwave. So, that's 4 baking options, 5 if you count our bread machine, all without a double wall oven. Not a solution for everyone but I thought it might be worth mentioning. If you click around in the links, some of the information about the use of solar ovens in refugee camps is heartening, and gives me hope for the future of the world. It's worth it to me, both in terms of electricity saved, and in setting an example for my kids, to master the use of the solar oven. Plus it doesn't take up any space in my kitchen or make it hotter in the summer! Here is a link that might be useful: More and more solar oven options out there

It sounds like you have a fairly compact kitchen. I know quite a few people who have done just what you mention (convection/MW over single oven) and are very happy with the choice. If you find that you really need more heating ability for large parties you can add in something portable that usually lives in storage. Most people do fine just planning a menu that can be juggled with what they have, such as serving rice instead of potatoes. As to the cabinets, you can get a low profile hood that takes less height than the OTR. You do lose some cabinet space for the duct, but the tradeoff in ventilation is worth it. Over the range isn't the best cabinet space anyway. It's a great place for cookie cutters and pastry bags, and other light things that aren't used as often.

Well, the installation guy came today to check our cabinet. There was an obvious miscommunication. We thought the purpose of his visit was to help us figure out what to do to prepare the opening. But he said it was our job to figure that out! Finally relented and gave us a few pointers and this is what we learned: 1. We just need to use the IKEA special shelf (Ultrusta 704.873.47) that supports 330 pounds (not 400). He was convinced about this and he's installed hundreds of these units. He pointed out that rIght on the combo unit box it says that that unit weighs "200 to 300 pounds". And, additional support for the unit comes from the screws that will connect the unit to the sides of the cabinet. So the shelf doesn't really have to hold all the weight. So for these reasons he says we just need the Ultrusta shelf (just one of them). And since he does not think we need to support 400 pounds, he does not advise adding 2 X 4 support or doubling up on the shelf. BTW, when you put the shelf in as IKEA directs in the pamphlet that comes with the shelf, the metal brackets that face up narrow the opening and it won't be wide enough for the combo unit! So we turned the brackets upside down so that the metal that takes up room is below the shelf rather than above it. (Need a photo of this? No problem, I can probalby take that tomorrow.) Also, I have a question about this shelf. It says it's ventilated. But I don't see where the vent is. Do you? And the installer didn't feel we needed a ventilated shelf. So all good if it's not ventilated. 2. The unit is a bit deeper than the cabinet. So in back of the opening for the combo unit we are going to have to cut out the cabinet back. 3. He said it's best for the cut out to be 42 1/4 which is the max dimension given in the diagram below. 4. He also emphasized that we have to allow for 1 inch on the top and 1 inch on the bottom of the cut out dimension to give enough space for the lip on the top and bottom of the combo oven -- so the lip projects over these 1 inch spaces. I am not sure if we have to also put some filler there so that the lip doesn't just sit over empty space but rather sits up against some hard surface like a piece of a panel or something. I really don't know. Hopefully tomorrow we'll work on this and then I'll know more and can tell you more. Here's what the intstaller person was referring to when he talked about the 1 inch spaces: Look at A and C in diagram on left and notice that the line for the cut out ends before A and C begin. Then look at the info I circled on the right where they say what A and C equal. 5. Above this combo unit we'll have room for a 30 inch cabinet and then we'll have to add filler to close the gap between the cabinet above and the combo unit. (This is just how we are doing it because I prefer for the microwave/convection oven which open out to be low enough that I won't burn my elbows when I use it to bake rather than to microwave.) 6. And very important: Junction box cannot be behind the unit. He recommened putting it above in the cabinet. And in my case, this means above the filler and then in the cabinet. I just hope we have enough wire to do that...or the electricians will have to figure this one out... And now I see that the directions GE gives says to put the junction box 9 1/2 inches max, on the right side of the unit only. Hmmm... we'll have to figure this out. Please let me know how it's going for you! And if you disagree with anything I've written, please say so. I may have misunderstood something...and together we can get this right. It's not rocket science :) Well, this is what we learned. And next Wed they come to install -- but before then we have to make the space ready so they can just plop it in, turn it on and make sure it works.