Mitered edge with built in beverage center
10 years ago
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- 10 years ago
- 10 years ago
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Beverage Center - Do any of them not suck?
Comments (35)Our brand new SubZero beverage unit is horrendously noisy. (Dealer installed last week.) I may start saving or appropriating $$$ from other remodel funds put aside in order to replace with another brand. It is that bad, the racket it makes. Price, at least in this case, is not always a guarantee of low noise levels... Looks-wise the SZ is gorgeous but wow, IMO a huge mistake I made when I purchased. We have one of their fridge/freezer units, installed last year, and love it. But that undercounter unit? A total thumbs down from our house. I can hear it running from other rooms, it's that loud. To the OP: best wishes!! I hope you find something great! The idea is wonderful, to have the little fridge under a counter for extras, drinks, whatever. Good luck to you....See Moredesk to beverage center
Comments (5)to OP: if you mean having the fridge so that the door opens into the current doorway - I would say don't do it. as far as what live_wire says, I see one electrical outlet above the kneehole area, but no vent in the kneehole. is there any vent in the wall behind the bar? I like the idea of stealing a bit of space from inside the wall and recessing the fridge. if that wall is not load bearing, this can be done pretty easily, if it is load bearing, it is a small enough hole that it can be done, but I don't have advice for you because I'm not a structural guru. To see what is there, gently using a small prybar, removve the base molding in the kneehole under the desk. take a sharp blade, and make a perimeter cut around the edges of the desk kneehole. using a wallboard saw, carefully remove the wall board making sure not to cut too deep to see what is in the wall. if you are lucky, the electrical was dropped from above and there will be nothing there. if you do have to move the electrical over and you do not want to do electrical work, you will need an electrician anyway to put in the fridge outlet, so one call can do both of these tasks. if you do this, make sure that you screw stops into the floor under the fridge where the fridge feet are, and put a wooden bar across the middle to top of the back of the recess where the back of the fridge will stop, so no one can accidentally push the fridge too far and go thru the wallboard. This post was edited by detroit_burb on Sun, Feb 10, 13 at 11:17...See MoreMiter edge or laminate for calacatta quartzite?
Comments (40)hollysprings, I've been thinking about your comment since you posted! It makes me nervous. I don't like things extremely traditional or extremely modern. I guess I would lean more toward traditional but do like some transitional elements. I was thinking that the mitered edge or the edge like Romy's (with the eased edge under the ogee) could work. I have seen traditional kitchens with a mitered edge that look fantastic and transitional kitchens with an ogee stacked on an eased edge that also look good. Thoughts? I couldn't tell which one you were advising me to do or not do....See MorePerlick undercounter beverage center/fridge - issues with shelves?
Comments (22)Advice if a Perlick is chosen and you have to install it yourself. (a) it is much easier to move it if you first remove the door (very simple) and the shelves and shelf glides (fairly simple) (b) keep in mind that when it slides along the floor into position, changes can occur to the adjustable support pads, and also that the floor may not be the same under the counter. Hence, level outside, move inside, measure level in three axes, pull out and set the pads to the approximate negative of any mis-level at the installed position, try again. Unlike SZ refrigerator/freezers, the back pads can't be adjusted from the front. (c) cabinets can look very square to the line of the wall but not be, and this will affect the Perlick alignment at the front as well as the door opening. Square up all cabinets relative to the line defining the cabinet fronts before bonding the counter to the cabinets. (d) countertop should be deep enough to allow the cabinets to be located a bit away from the wall behind them. Mine is 29.5 inches deep, but I had some stuff to avoid behind the 24-inch cabinets....See More- 10 years ago
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