In the wine reserve units, the bottles lie down. In the refrigerator unit, the shelves are wire with a retaining railing at the back. If cans are left standing and widely scattered on such shelves, and one yanks the shelf, I am sure that there would be cans falling over.

The refrigerator bottom is metal and flat, so cans there will stay up. I probably would lay cans down if I were using shelves for cans. However, I have only a wine reserve and a refrigerator; and not a beverage center proper, so I haven't played with any third type of shelf, if it exists. My refrigerator shelves look like the lower one in the image below that is just wire at the door. I also replaced a refrigerator shelf with a wine reserve shelf, as the image seems to show being used for the two top shelves.

Note that shelves and their sliders are matched by type; do not lose track of the matings or you will have an experimental project reassembling shelves so that they glide correctly.

Look at the liebherr beverage fridge - we have been very happy with ours. Very quiet. Reasonable shelf flexibility.

Yes it does and a split shelf

Mark Bischak, Architect

Switch to red wine, you won't need refrigeration.

Sure but not entirely true if you are fussy about red but best kept in the wine room.

As a point of curiosity, Pinebaron, at what red-wine bottle count would you guess it is more economical to have a wine room kept at "cellar temperature" rather than using a number of independent refrigerated cabinets? (Assume that the house is freestanding in temperate climate such that refrigeration is needed in either case.)

kaseki, Such an investment only makes sense if you have at least several hundred bottles of red wine and I'd say at least 500. Back in NJ, had a couple of hundred bottles, kept a bunch in the basement bar and the rest in another room in the basement. I still have that bar packed in my garages here, ready to install in my plumbed 2nd floor media room/man cave. Storing more than a few reds and other drinks below the bar can get messy. You can see thirteen reds in a twelve bottle rack in my bar below.

The Perlick under-bar 15-inch-wide wine reserve holds 20 bottles without using the shelf at the very bottom.

Your bar's look reminds me of the old Carlton Hotel (Edinburgh UK) 2nd floor bar, albeit the Carlton's was larger in scale and more of the bottles were single malt Scotch whisky.

I love that bar, below is full pic. Our family room will have its own 13.5’ long bar less bar with everything one would need.

New bar in family room on the left of the pic

I have two Perlick beverage centers and love them. The pull out shelves are great and unless something is small (like a small bottle of olives or something), they don't tip over. They are pricy though.

Nice, Pinebaron. Are you planning Carrara marble walls, or is that look just an artifact of the design software?

My application of the Perlicks and bar area takes the other extreme and hides all the booze. In the image below, the Perlick Wine Reserve is the left most lower cabinet; the Perlick Refrigerator is the second from right lower cabinet. Although this area was originally intended for a mini wrap around bar configuration, when I finally got to it I decided best use of my family room space was to use a wall counter.

Granite is "Kryptonite." So far, no one wearing his underwear on the outside has visited.

Keseki: Yep that's exactly what it will be. All materials are derived from the final product being installed. Except BM paint colors, I built all floor and wall surfaces and layout (texture files) from scratch, a very tedious job. The hardwood floor material and color is not finalized yet.

kaseki, nice bar set-up! Didn't know perlick made panel ready. Pretty sure Superman drinks red wines, but don't quote me on that.

Advice if a Perlick is chosen and you have to install it yourself.

(a) it is much easier to move it if you first remove the door (very simple) and the shelves and shelf glides (fairly simple)

(b) keep in mind that when it slides along the floor into position, changes can occur to the adjustable support pads, and also that the floor may not be the same under the counter. Hence, level outside, move inside, measure level in three axes, pull out and set the pads to the approximate negative of any mis-level at the installed position, try again. Unlike SZ refrigerator/freezers, the back pads can't be adjusted from the front.

(c) cabinets can look very square to the line of the wall but not be, and this will affect the Perlick alignment at the front as well as the door opening. Square up all cabinets relative to the line defining the cabinet fronts before bonding the counter to the cabinets.

(d) countertop should be deep enough to allow the cabinets to be located a bit away from the wall behind them. Mine is 29.5 inches deep, but I had some stuff to avoid behind the 24-inch cabinets.

Wondering if anyone can tell me how long the power cord is for the Perlick Beverage Cooler? Trying to decide if I need to move an outlet before installation. Thank you.

There are at least 6 feet of cord from the right edge of my wine reserve, and 6 feet from the left edge of my refrigerator (see layout above). Both are plugged into an wall outlet below the sink.

(Note: As I recall, directions are for separate outlets -- or maybe it was separate circuits -- but the current pull for my units, even with both motors starting together, is well under the limit of the 20A breaker feeding the outlet. I've never had the GFCI breaker trip, even with occasional other light loads on the circuit. I have an outlet above the countertop on the same circuit that has a neon night light in it as a power tell-tale. If one were using the refrigerator as a means to refrigerate temperature sensitive foods, then a more aggressive alarm might be called for. I keep track of the refrigerator temperature with a remote reading digital thermometer. But the main purpose is to detect a rare case of not closing the door fully.)

We are just at the wiring stage, and according to our code (which we have to have inspected), a separate outlet and circuit for the fridge - GFCI, while the wine cooler (yet to be chosen) didn't need a dedicated, and not GFCI if I recall DH's comments correctly. If you don't need inspection, kasiki is right, 20A breaker should handle both with no trips.

Wow, did I just type that? DIY renovations sure is teaching me a lot! LOL!

The GFCI is used in my case because there is a second outlet on the circuit near the sink (used for the tell-tale), and because the circuit includes an exterior outlet on the other side of the wall. My household refrigerators (not including the Perlick "beer" refrigerator) do have separate circuits. Had the present layout of this bar area been established when I wired this part of the house addition, there would have been some differences in the wiring because I like as many circuits as possible to be independent. I have 40 breaker poles applied to just this addition.

"I like as many circuits as possible to be independent" I agree, I bought our home 20 years ago, new, and we just realized (during demo/remodel) it doesn't meet code in some areas (must've been a slack inspector who 'walked by' the contractor's electrical work), and is overloaded in other areas for our preferences. Having to re-wire which is costly and a pain (DH is not enjoying the attic in this heat), but it'll be to code, and better at least.

"I have 40 breaker poles applied to just this addition." You sure didn't skimp! LOL!