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placement of vertical pulls on shaker cabs

12 years ago

I thought answers would be easier to find. Mostly there's discussion about where to put pulls on shaker drawers or whether placing them horizontally on cabs looks okay.

I've got plain old white shaker cabinets, almost full overlay (very small space between doors). Going with vertically placed pulls. Should the bottom screw be aligned with the horizontal rail, or should the bottom of the pull be aligned? Too close to call?

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Comments (5)

jscout
12 years ago
Personally, I'd be inclined to line up the bottom edge of the pull. That said, mine are a little higher. It was what my cabinet maker recommended and it wasn't a big deal to me so I went along. I like it.
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Bunny
Original Author
12 years ago
jscout, I agree with you. It was what I was trying to accomplish with this photo but I didn't line it up very well. So, just a smidge higher, right?
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Hi Lorenza. I've contributed to many threads on this very subject. I did a quick Internet search and came up with quite a few threads probably worth reading. I'll link one below, which also peripherally discusses pull size. I decided I didn't like the look of pulls placed both vertically and horizontally in the same kitchen. Too busy for me. Plus, i have very few doors in the kitchen as most of my lower storage is drawers and I have few uppers. When I looked at pull placement for the trash pullout, I knew ergonomics dictated a horizontal pull like a drawer because it does pull out just like a drawer does. Since I wanted the other doors (only the sink bases and one corner cab) in the kitchen to look the same, all needed horizontal pulls. To me, the sink base doors are much easier to open than if I placed the pulls vertically, which would necessarily mean lower on the doors. Ditto the upper cabs. So, I have a horizontally-pulled kitchen! And I've never been a knob girl, although I did use some crystal knobs on my dish hutch and on my liquor cab in the DR. Trash pullout is the doored cab at the end of the island across from the cleanup sink. Fourteen months later, I'm very pleased with all my hardware decisions! Here is a link that might be useful: One such placement thread
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dd70 Sorry... I didn't see your question until today. This board moves fast! Our trash pullout drawer has an internal drawer box (3/4 inch plywood front panel) which is overlayed with the panel that matches the rest of the cabinets / drawers. The internal box doesn't go all the way up the back of the panel... it stops just below the frame (shaker-style doors). In order to not be wrenching on the frame of the overlay all the time, I had the handle placed a little lower , so it would go through the internal drawer box too. Some may have internal boxes that go nearly all the way up. so they are strong enough to put the pull through just the frame of the panel... I'd have see the inside. Or, conversely, there may not be an internal box at all, but side and bottom glides... it all depends on how the drawer is designed. mysterymachine Does your handle attach through an internal box, or just the frame of the cabinet face?
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Thank you everyone for sharing. It looks like there is not wrong or right way as looks as the pulls are placed consistently. All the kitchens are so beautiful! Breezy is the granite up a tiny bit everywhere are just the area away from the sink as I love the look! The verticle Marble is how many inches up on the wall? What CM is your gorgeous slab? I know you used BMW Simply White for the paint and it is beautiful with the Marble. I love all your choices. I wish I had so much light like you have in your kitchen. Badgergirl, your cabinets are beautiful also and the pulls looks so nice since they are consistently placed. Blather, I would place the pull on the top rail like the other cabinet doors. I love how your kitchen is coming along.
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You can put them wherever you want. If you want them in the inset, you can do that, or if you want them on the frame you can do that too. I think as long as you're consistent in your placement it will look fine. Some people recommend not putting handles/pulls in the inset if the inset material is too thin and recommend putting them in the frame. If you look in the finished kitchens blog at various kitchens, you will find examples of both. It's really up to you. Here is a link that might be useful: http://finishedkitchens.blogspot.com/
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formerlyflorantha
12 years ago
My bottom screw of pull is centered in the imaginary rectangle where the right angle of cab frame occurs. This puts it about 1.5 inches from the horizontal edge, but we might have made them different if my frames were a different width. Pulls are 6 inches long. Cabs are full overlay. Yours would make me reach higher--I'm 5'6" tall and am happy with mine.

By the way, my mother is now 89 and has big trouble reaching upwards...because my kitchen is planned for a fictitious old lady in her 80s, the less reaching the better, but upper cabs are, in general, a curse for such an old lady. (Mother entirely stopped using some upper cabs before she moved to assisted living joint.)
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mindstorm
12 years ago
Do you know or can you find out where the joint of the rails and styles lies on your doors?
Is it a mitre joint? In which case, if you can keep away from the diagonal then anything a bit above is structurally safe.
Is it a butt joint? If so, jointed along the rail or along the stile? Accordingly keep away from the corresponding joint. You can choose for aesthetics or comfort subject to those constraints.

Can you get a recommendation from your cab-maker or cabinet vendor a la jscout? That should just give you a gauge on what he believes is safe for the cabinetry.
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Bunny
Original Author
12 years ago
mindstorm, makes good sense to avoid the join. The rail/stile joins are so well blended on my painted doors that it's nigh impossible to detect. But in just the right light I think I can see that the stiles are butted up to the rails, thus making positioning along them safe. I think I do like lining up the bottom of the pull with the intersection of stile and rail.
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