House Shopping, Saw an Old House Today and Need Help Deciding
19 years ago
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- 19 years agolast modified: 9 years ago
- 19 years agolast modified: 9 years ago
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Need some help/advice on my old house
Comments (12)Removing Paint from Siding. There are two tools that, in our experience, are very good at taking paint off siding, and a lot better than the traditional heat and scrape, or scrape and sand methods.. 1. Silent Paint Remover is one. This tool is a GIANT STEP above heat guns and the dangers they cause. The other is 2. Paint Shaver. This is a mechanical, high speed stripper that uses replaceable carbide blades. Which one we use depends on the paint to be removed. Silent Paint Remover is slower, but does a very neat job requiring very little sanding. Paint Shaver is faster, but takes a bit of practice to remove the paint without putting a lot of crescent-shaped divots in your siding that require a lot of sanding out. One mistake to guard against using this tool is setting the depth adjustment for too-aggressive a cut. You don't need to remove all the paint, just the loose paint, so don't try to get down to bare wood in one pass. When you are removing paint, you hope the original painter did a lousy job so it will come off easily. If he was good at his job, it's going to come off hard no matter what tool you use. Keep in mind that the EPA lead abatement rules govern the safe removal of any exterior lead paint. As a homeowner, they may not apply to you, but follow them anyway for everyone's safety. Both of these tools are commonly available at a deep discount over retail from e-Bay and Graig's list. We have used and cannot recommend the Metabo or Wagner machines. They don't work nearly as well as the suggested machines. Repairing Plaster To repair cracked or falling-off true plaster you need to reattach it to the wood or metal lath underneath. The traditional way is with screws and plaster washers. These usually extend proud of the wall, making them difficult to conceal except with thick coats of patching plaster. The better way is to glue the plaster to the lath. There is a commercial kit to do this called Plaster Magic which we like, but which we also think is pretty expensive. We just use our own, locally available materials, that work just as well and are a lot less expensive. Here's what to do: 1. Using a concrete bit, drill about 3/8" holes in the plaster until you hit the lath -- do not drill through the lath. You will feel it when you reach the lath. You will want to drill about 1" on both sides of any crack, putting a hole about every 4-6" along the crack. Its a judgment call. Drill as many holes as you think you will need. If in doubt, more is usually better. For large loose areas, drill about every 4"-6" in the field and every 4" around the perimeter of the loose plaster area. Sometimes you will hit the gaps between lath strips. Don't worry about it. Just move about 1" away and drill again. 2. With your trusty shop vac, suck the plaster dust out of each hole. This is important, plaster dust interferes with the adhesive. 3. Using your caulk gun and a good construction adhesive (we like Power Grab, but any quality adhesive should work. In a pinch, we have used most of them at one time or another and none have failed.) squirt a good glob of adhesive into each hole. This will probably be messy, so have some mineral spirits and rags around to cleanup any drip-out. 4. Make a bunch of 4" square wood washers. You can make them out of job scrap. We use 1/2" or 3/4" OSB most of the time just because it happens to be around. Drill a hole in the center of each washer - 3/16" or 1/4" ought to do it. 5. Line the washers up with the holes you drilled earlier and, using a drywall screw, attach the washer to the wood lath beneath the plaster. You don't need to screw into every hole, about every 4-6 holes is a good rule of thumb. What you want to do is put even pressure over the loose plaster area and draw it back to the lath. This will allow the adhesive you just applied to bond the lath tightly to the plaster once again. As you tighten the screw, you will feel the plaster draw in. DO NOT try to sink the screws all the way in one go. Draw them in gradually moving from screw to screw. This lessens the risk of cracking the plaster further. When all the screws are sunk, you are done until tomorrow. Go have a beer. 6. After 24 hours, remove the screws, put them back in the box (they can be reused) and throw the washers away. The plaster is now stuck solidly to the lath once again. There are no screws or washers in the wall - so finishing the plaster is much simplified, and this fix is strong. The adhesive sticks like, well, like glue. 7. Using patching plaster, a setting joint compound, or even regular joint compound, patch the screw holes, cracks and fill in any missing plaster. The purists will tell you that joint compound has a different texture than real plaster and is softer, so you should not use it. It does have a different texture and is softer, but so what? The paint will hide any differences. 8. We recommend against paper tape on cracks. What we use is nylon screening -- the stuff in screen doors. buy a role from your hardware store and cut it into 6" strips while it is still rolled up -- its easy to cut with normal shop shears or even your utility knife. Use this in place of nylon mesh tape -- it works better. We embed it in a thin coat of joint compound, then, when the first coat of mud has set, mud over it. Its wider footprint is better at stabilizing cracks than narrow nylon mesh tape. In fact, we have never had a repair fail using this method. Removing Layers of Paint from Interior Trim Definitely use a commercial stripping service if you have one in your area. At $1.00 - $2.00 per linear foot, the price is well worth not having to deal with the mess of stripping in place or on saw horses in your garage. After stripping be sure to sand with a fine sandpaper to remove the fuzzing that stripping causes. Good luck....See MorePainting our old house....need help!
Comments (38)Les, thank you for your thoughtful input. It's really not about voting, at least I don't think so. I just really want to make it all look the best I can given the colors I have chosen. And given the fact that our house has gone through multiple changes through the years. We are trying to take it back, as much as we can, to what it would have been in the late 1880's. Yes there is a disconnect between the back addition and the rest of the house. Just was not sure how to "fix" it. At one time that addition also had a porch where the window is. When the previous owner renovated he removed that porch as it was not original. This picture was taken in the late 1950's He actually removed another porch on the garden side of the house as well. In total (counting the screened porch on the garden side)there were a total of 6 porches on our house! The windows in the addition are actually much smaller by comparison to the windows in the rest of the house. The windows in the brick part of the house are 84" and that's the inside measurement. All ceilings are 12' in the house. Sorry if I get a little carried away. But making our home the best it can be is a passion with me, can you tell? :-) oceanna, that is the same way I felt the first time I walked into our home, and still feel that way today! But it seems to be a never ending process. So much to do, so little time it seems. Actually people do slam on their brakes or drive very slowly past. One lady even ran the stop sign out front because she was looking at the house. (She stopped and told me about it the next week - got a ticket too!) jlc712, thank you. We love it and hope that when we are gone the next caretakers of our home will treat it with love as well....See MoreAre rounded corners an upgrade in homes today, are they old school?
Comments (41)Our house (built in 1992) has bulldozed corners and the original owners has applied the baseboards with a 22.5 miter to a short pc to round the corner then another 22.5 to the next wall. It looked fine but we put in all new flooring and used the prefab rounded corners with a taller plain baseboard and I like it much better....See MoreVery small house...Need help deciding where to put the remodel budget.
Comments (32)ok exact measurements. the house is not exactly a 20x30 square but its close enoguh. a few of the inner walls are thicker as they used to be exterior walls. the kitchen is 113inches by 141. It does fit a corner banquette with a round table and 3 chairs, and you can seat up to 2 on each leg of the banquette. Most comfortable with fewer than 6 people but up to 7 is possible. 8 if someone sits in the corner . Master is 130x116 (inches). Bedrooms are 80 inches wide and 136 and 116 inches long. Bathroom i was wrong on the measurements. It is 98x 57 (there is a cut out here so its not a perfect rectangle). The hall is 36 inches wide. The biggest benefit of using up that space to me is that people won't be as confined to a tiny hallway where it is awkward to pass anyone else. So I like the idea of taking part of the bathroom and part of the hallway to make another bathroom, and also to take down the walls int eh kitchen. So we would need to get some quotes for this but it seems relatively doable. We could wait on the closets for a while and it doesnt require moving any walls that we didnt already plan to move. Reality is it doesnt improve rental price THAT much to add a bathroom as far as I can tell, but there are only a few other rentals in the area to compare to. So addding the bath is partially for resale partially just because it irks me to have such a wasteful layout. Either way we do make back the cost of the bathroom quickly....See MoreRelated Professionals
Kalamazoo Kitchen & Bathroom Designers · Ramsey Kitchen & Bathroom Designers · Southbridge Kitchen & Bathroom Designers · West Virginia Kitchen & Bathroom Designers · Holden Kitchen & Bathroom Remodelers · Blasdell Kitchen & Bathroom Remodelers · Bloomingdale Kitchen & Bathroom Remodelers · Franconia Kitchen & Bathroom Remodelers · Panama City Kitchen & Bathroom Remodelers · Richland Kitchen & Bathroom Remodelers · Lawndale Kitchen & Bathroom Remodelers · Gladstone Architects & Building Designers · Makakilo City Architects & Building Designers · Saint James Architects & Building Designers · Washington Architects & Building Designers- 19 years agolast modified: 9 years ago
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