About 10 years ago I helped out a friend who needed surgery and owned a woman's clothing boutique...I was amazed by the ease at which the wrinkles came out of new clothing being unboxed and hung up in her store, and bought a professional steamer for my own use. When I moved not long after, the ironing board did not move with me. Any item that needs touching up gets done as I need it. It takes seconds. The steam in the winter is helpful in the air, in the summer I find it is not a problem; I seem to need it less often and only for a brief amount of time when I do. I was thinking recently that I should get rid of my iron, as I have not used it in 10 years!! I should say that I 'snap' garments as I take them out of the dryer as soon as it's done, and take just a few extra minutes to fold each piece, then (usually!) hang them in the closet right away. (I NEVER ever have a basket of jumbled up clothing - if it has to hang around, at least everything is smoothed and folded). Some clothes out of the washer go into the dryer for only a minute to remove wrinkles and then get hung up; others get hung up without any drying. This helps keep them smooth and nearly wrinkle free as does attention to not over-drying as was pointed out. I have an incredibly small closet which forces me to be more selective. I used to have a huge problem managing my clothing - for years I had WAY too many items, and would get overwhelmed by their care. Realizing I seldom wore most of what I owned, I've SIMPLIFIED and find managing much easier now. Also, not having piles of clothing waiting to be ironed helps! I will never go back to ironing, but agree that for those that do - ironing (or steaming) as you go eliminates that process.... Penny G.

This is one of those broad "categories" I prefer to break up and store by use. Hence parchment sheets are near baking center, but parchment roll is near prep where I might be making up packages for steaming veg or seafood. Similarly, microvable wax paper is near MW, but waxed paper sandwich bags are stowed with the brown paper lunch bags. (I don't make up lunch bags very often, nowadays.) Foodsaver rolls are near foodsaver machine. Aluminum foil is near oven with parchment roll. Clingfilm is near the fridge, along with my ziplocks, though I am trying hard to use reuseable glass containers for leftovers, which are stored in the same place. Freezer bags and butcher paper are with my food preservation supplies. I am working hard to get over my tendency to lump sets (dishes, pots, implements, spices) together rather than disposing them around by where they get used. I figure that even if it's more steps to place them in their storage positions (i.e. putting soup bowls in a different cupboard from the cereal bowls) at least those steps aren't happening just at the moments I need them for cooking or plating. L

"With a thick granite countertop, you ain't gonna do any damage by putting a hot pot on it. There simply isn't enough residual heat to transfer to the counter...so don't worry about it. (It's all good)" Maybe I should have told that to this customer. Sorry for the picture quality, but the crack runs parallel to the white tape and starts in the field at the tape pointer and runs to the edge. I didn't hear or see this crack happen from heat, but there are no impact marks and the crack is right next to the cooktop where one would set a pan and right where I've removed many pot marks in solid surface tops.

Once you've finalized your basic design, it's time to analyze your storage needs in each zone. The results of that analysis will drive the size & configuration of your cabinets and drawers. First, make a list of everything you plan to store in your new kitchen, regardless of where it's stored now...kitchen, basement, dining room, etc. Next, take the list and group the items according to function. Will they be used during prep? cooking? baking? cleanup? Some items, like pot holders, may belong in two different zones (in this case, cooking & baking). You can either find storage between the two zones or have duplicates and store one in each zone. Now, determine where each of your zones will be (prep, cleanup, cooking, baking, storage, etc.) The next step depends on the stage you are in the design/order process... If you've already ordered your cabinets, then you will have to work with what you have. So... Identify the storage potential in each zone and list them on a piece of paper with a section for each cabinet (base & upper) and one line per drawer or shelf in that cabinet. This includes your pantry for your "storage" zone. Take the two lists and, while imagining yourself working in each zone, put the dishes, tools, etc. that you will be using in cabinets in that zone. Fill in the lines in the cabinet list with these items. If you are still in the design phase, you will have the opportunity to plan your storage to meet your needs in each zone. Take your list and imagine yourself working in each zone. Go through the motions to determine the best locations for each item that will be used and stored in that zone (don't forget that you will probably have both upper and lower cabinets). Now that you know where to put the items, determine what the best way is to store those items (drawer, shelf, etc.) and what size (e.g., pots & pans work best in 30" or 36" drawers) Lastly, transfer what you've done to your design & tweak as necessary. You should now have a well-thought out and highly functional kitchen! Sample storage map: This process and the resultant "map" will not only help you to "see" how things will fit, but the map will also help when you move back into the kitchen...you won't have to think about it, you'll be able to just put things away. It will also be a handy map for everyone to use when attempting to find things the first few weeks w/o having to open every drawer or door! Oh, and don't forget the Junk Drawer! Most people end up with one, so you may as well plan for it so you at least have control over where it's located! skip line Common Zones, Appliances In That Zone, and Suggestions For What To Store There: Storage--pantry & refrigerator--Tupperware, food, wraps & plastic bags Preparation--sink & trash/recyclables--utensils, measuring cups/spoons, mixing bowls, colander, jello molds, cutting boards, knives, cook books, paper towels Cooking--cooktop/range & MW (and near a water source)--utensils, pot holders, trivets, pots & pans, serving dishes (platters, bowls, etc.), paper towels Baking--ovens/range--utensils, pot holders, trivets, pots & pans, casserole dishes, roasting rack, cooling racks, cookie sheets, foils, rolling pin, cookie cutters, pizza stone, muffin tins, paper towels [often combined with Cooking Zone] Cleanup--sink & DW & trash--detergents, linens, dishes & glasses, flatware Eating/Serving--island/peninsula/table/nook/DR--table linens, placemats, napkins, dishes & glasses, flatware Utility--broom, dustpan, swifter, mop, cleaning supplies, cloths, flashlights, batteries, extension cords Message/Communication/Command Center--keys, phones/answering machine, charging station, directories/phone books, calendar, desk supplies, dry erase board or chalkboard, pens/pencils, sticky notepaper skip line Less Common Zones: Tea/Coffee Bar--tea/coffeemaker (and near a water source)--mugs, teas/coffees, sugar, teapot Snack/Beverage Center--near MW & refrigerator or small refrigerator--snacks, snack dishes, glasses [often combined with Tea/Coffee Bar] Pet Zone--feeding area--food, snacks, leashes, medicines (if no children in the home), etc. skip line Overlapping of Zones Due to space constraints, some zones often overlap. If this is the case in your kitchen, be sure there is enough work space in the overlap for both activities. Zones that commonly overlap... Prep & Cooking Zones--These zones should be adjacent to each other, so this is a common overlap and is generally not a problem. Just be sure you have enough room for prepping as well as landing space for the range/cooktop. (It is strongly advised you have enough room for emergency landing space on both sides of a range/cooktop.) Prep & Cleanup Zones--If there is only one sink in the kitchen, these zones will be adjacent to each other because of the need for a water source for both zones. However, true overlapping is not generally a good idea. Instead, try to keep the cleanup area separate from the prep area by putting the sink between them. E.g., DW on one side, Prep Zone on the other side. (You should strive to keep the DW out of the Prep Zone as well as out of the path between the sink and Prep & Cooking Zones and between the refrigerator and Prep & Cooking Zones.) Also try for at least 36" (42" or more is better) of room on the Prep Zone side of the sink for ample workspace as well as accommodating the inevitable dirty dishes that will accumulate next to the sink. skip line Commonly Used Items: pots & pans, utensils, small appliances, linens, pot holders, trivets, dish detergents, "Tupperware", knives, pitchers, water bottles, vases, picnic supplies, cook books, etc. Foods: Spices, Breads, Flours/Sugars, Teas/Coffees, Potatoes, Onions, Canned Goods, Dry Goods (rice, pasta, etc.), Cereals, Snacks Small Appliances: Toaster, Stand and/or Hand Mixer, Blender, Breadmaker, Toaster Oven, Food Processor, Crockpot, Waffle Iron, Electric Skillet, Coffeemaker, Coffee Grinder, Ricer, Steamer SPECIAL NOTE: If your ceiling or one or more of your walls is coming down, consider wiring for speakers, TV, Computer, etc. skip line Some helpful threads: forestfire..please help me with my lists [Missing In Action as of 5/16/10...if anyone has saved it, please let me know by emailing me via "My Page"] List of stuff in kitchens? What should go within easy reach of the cooktop? What goes where? Reloading the new kitchen, any tips where things should go?