Sorry, typo! I meant the 2060, a freestanding right-door opening fridge, which is what I actually linked. I will link it again here. @tinyone. Can you provide measurements around the cut out and the distance in inches from the interior of the cutout to the wall? Without that information it's hard to truly help. @sjhockey - I agree that a right opening door is not ideal. But it offers the best chance of opening enough so the fridge actually can be used. Unless there is enough clearance it can't open left because even a 0-clearance hinge fridge has a handle which will hit the wall and may not fully open. But we can only make "if this" suggestions without the facts/ measurements. Given the facts the OP has posted so far, I don't believe the agent is right. I think I am right. But that could change depending on how far it is from the fridge cutout to the wall on the left and how much space there is between the ovens and the cut out on the right. And if there's enough space for the door to swing open in the aisle between the fridge wall and the island. @tiny -- if you are doing other work in the house, a competent GC could make this all go away very easily. Depending -- again -- on the current location of the electrical outlet in the fridge cut out and the location of the water line it might need an electrician and a plumber in addition to a carpenter who is good enough to do fine finish work and alter an existing cabinet well enough to reuse pieces as needed. If a GC has a good crew, that's the way to go. The percentage paid to him will be worth it as he will be responsible. But I wouldn't let anyone touch anything until you ID a fridge that can function in the space somehow and after you've identified what will need to be altered more or less. Then I'd meet with the GC with the spec sheets in front of you to discuss his suggestions on how to go forward and what it will cost. Only after that would I make a purchase. OTOH, if the cabinet store that furnished the cabinets is known, might be worth a call to them. But then no one person is responsible. I also would be careful about where I purchase the fridge. It weighs 400 pounds. It needs to go from the truck to the door of the house closest to the kitchen. When my fridge was delivered it was to the bottom of my driveway -- the contractor had to bring it up. Don't assume anything. Ask a ton of questions. I'd want people there with the right equipment and in the right numbers to bring it into without ruining the floors, nicking the door, denting it or at worst -- dropping it. I'd find out in advance if the fridge can be tilted horizontally (some cannot). Unfortunately, this is not a Mom's fridge from Sears situation. Here is a link that might be useful: Liebherr 2060

I purchased the KA CD FD 72" high model last fall and so far I really like it. I seriously looked at the Liebherr but in the end I really needed white not stainless - wish the Liebherr had come in white. Whilst I really liked the Liebherr produce drawers (much bigger than on the KA) I also like the split shelves on the KA that I can adjust as two columns. I thought this unit was vastly overpriced relative to the shorter model and the standard depth units, but I really liked the upgraded interior and the hidden hinges etc on the 72", and especially the better sliding produce drawers, so I sprung for it. It would be great if the produce drawers were were larger and deeper like on the Liebherr but I use the veggy green bags and store the extra produce on the glass shelf just above the drawers. It is reasonably quiet, but then I have it where the noise is not an issue in any case. The ice maker seems to work fine for us - but this is my first fridge with ice and so that is already a luxury for me. I could do without the water dispenser - the water tastes disgusting and plasticy. We do not use it and I wish it were not there. My ideal would be to have only the icemaker, no water! For me this was the best fridge outside the Liebherr. However, I could not justify the expense of the Libeherr when I would be compromising on the stainless vs the white. Good luck!

We have had a counter depth Bosch French door for about two months now. Ice maker, but no water dispenser. We like it. I am consistently impressed by how much food we can fit in the refrigerator section, and consistently disappointed in the size of the freezer section. We had a full size model before, although it was an older, smaller model. I had planned to get a separate freezer in the basement anyway, but that is definitely a necessity now, because I like to stock up on frozen foods. But space in the refrigerator section, even though there are fewer cubic feet, has not been a problem at all.

In terms of overall length, I have from left to right: 48" Freezer(18")/Fridge(30") 3/4 inch side cover panel 120" counter top, therein 36" induction cook top 3/4 inch side cover panel 30" wall ovens 48" pantry (2x24" high cabinets) 2" cover panel to the wall = 249.5" Total I've been going back and forth on the hood. It's probably the most discussed item. Originally we planned to get a custom hood liner built for an insert hood, but now we are leaning towards this very basic BOSCH pull out hood. Minimum mounting clearance over cooktop is 25 3/5". There is no maximum clearance given in the spec sheets. It should come in right around 30-32" clearance (math: 84" tall cab (incl. toe kick) - 36" base cabinets - 15" wall cab to mount the hood to - 2" for the hood hardware = 31"), which is very average as far as I can tell. I was planning to build a custom open cabinet left and right of the hood cabinet which will probably be around 16-17" high to seamlessly integrate the pull-out. See inspiration below.