1930's Colonial.... advice
sharknrg
14 years ago
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kimkitchy
14 years agoRelated Discussions
Spanish Colonial Revival - 1930s
Comments (4)Oldalgebra - Hi. I live here in LA also. I design and build custom furniture and cabinets and living out here I've done a lot of work in the Spanish style. I see you didn't get a lot of response to your post so I'll rant on a bit about Spanish style if you don't mind. I guess the first question I would have is how true to period they want to stay. That, and of course the budget, are the first determining factors. The space, the size and how much light the room gets also come into play. I agree with you about the tile counter tops. They are the worse to clean... not to mention to work on. One solid surface is the only way to go. However I do love vintage Spanish tiles. The real ones "cuerda seca". There are some good reproductions but nothing bets the patina of the real thing. Used as accents in the right places they can add an authenticity and really pop a design. Counter tops... soapstone like in the picture can be OK. It shouldn't be too busy though. Honed black granite or slate. Any natural stone on the plain side can work. The key is the finish. Nothing shiny. Limestone with a antiqued textured finish if you want something lighter. On the center island you can go with oiled wood. I did a copy of an antique French, end-grain butcher block with metal brackets on the corners that would work really well. I made top top slightly wavy to give an appearance of age. Cabinets... hardwood. Subtle distressing. Oil/wax finish. Rustic alder is used often. For a more sophisticated look Wm Ohs does something called "Spanish Revival". It's glazed with stepped detail, light distressing and rub-through. And believe it or not, green/blue painted pine(but it has to be done really well). Also white like the picture with the right elements works. Floors... of course terracotta pavers are traditional. Here again smaller accent tiles mixed in can really add to the look. I'd also through some heat strips under it to warm it up. Reclaimed wood or really well done distressed wide plank hardwood flooring works well. I've seen antique natural-edge limestone tile used and there some very good imported new antiqued ones but both of these are going to be at the higher end of the price scale. Maybe if there's not a lot of square footage. Other elements like rustic beam ceilings, coffered wood ceilings and the right wrought iron lighting fixtures really add to the look too. I could go on. I have a ton of pictures. You really have to narrow down the design first. One doesn't want to go off looking in the wrong direction. The taste of the people who are going to live there, what they imagine it to be, and how they respond to pictures of different looks is what I would go off of. John...See Moreneed advice on how to decorate a 1930's Craftsman style house
Comments (18)Congratulations. Let me chime in late. I have a 1937 home, but it is not a craftsman. There are plenty around in my neighborhood. I did a lot of research into period styles prior to my last round of renovation. By the 1930s, bright colors and lingering Art Deco influences were creeping into other styles. This could be a regional thing, so your area might be different. All of the original tile in our neighborhood is regular square 4x4s, in black, white, pink, aqua, mint green, maroon and yellow. The tile was used in BS, counters and baths. But with Craftsman, as everyone said above, it was all about wood. I love your cabinets and would only add the glass and refresh the finish. But if you did want to paint, white was pretty commonly used (as were the pastels). Counters were usually tile or formica; people now go back to earlier eras and are adding soapstone. I don't know if you saw this thread, but it had a pin board with retro homes. Here is a link that might be useful: Retro Home Thread, Click through to Pin Board...See MoreWindow advice for 1930s Spanish
Comments (1)The most common window style for them seems to be a plain multi-pane square glazing (not the assymetric small over large of colonials). Plenty of them had the multi-paned steel framed casements that were so popular in the 1910-50s era. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Spanish-mission-style.jpg Another style with tall casements is having each side be a single pane, like the lower French doors. http://4salebydonna.com/wp-content/gallery/heritage-homes/spanish-colonial-revival.jpg For really tall windows, a non-opening upper part with opening casements beneath works.My intact Spanish Colonial in Phoenix had 6 small over two tall vertical panes, casements. The one across the street had a HUGE arched single pane picture window, and the other windows were the "prairie style" with large center pane surrounded by smaller ones. And some had original (as far as we could tell) single-pane windows where they were non-opening. So you have a wide range of styles that are all "authentic", to the extent that Spanish Revival was authentic. What doesn't work: Diamond-shaped "Tudor" glazing. Those fancy arched curved glazings. Thick frames and separators....See MoreHelp with 1930s colonial floor plan layout
Comments (4)I don't think you can put the PR under the stairs if the basement staircase turns that direction. I'd put a door on the toilet stall and call it good. This plan is out of the box, and doesn't address the PR issue, but I'll post it and give you a bump. It creates a scullery and separate pantry from the existing bump-outs, which might be more accurate for an actual colonial home (1600's not 1930's). I drew a peninsula, which would utilize drawers with two-way travel slides, to be loaded from the scullery side, and unloaded from the prep/cooking side. Accuride International makes a travel slide 29 9/16" long, so the peninsula would be at least 33" deep. Or, you can go down to the next size, 23 5/8", and make the peninsula 30" deep. Caveat: The slides are expensive (see linked site), but not as expensive as adding on to the bump-outs, changing windows, etc., and the drawer fronts would need to be notched, to ride both directions on the slide. I can't tell if the window in the nook is high enough for a standard counter, but you could use a lowered counter if necessary. I included shallow uppers, as deep as the window width would allow. With the dividing wall removed, you can have an island with seating, and a convenient prep sink. There is a prep space which can also be used as landing for groceries to be loaded to the pantry. I put the fridge nearer the basement door, because it's more convenient to the prep sink, but it could be flipped to the other end of that short run. The prep spaces and work aisle are the minimum recommended by the NKBA, and there isn't much space in front of the side entry, but it's a remodel in an old house and there will be trade-offs. Some cabinets would need to be custom made (peninsula and pantry), which would add to the budget. Good luck! Two-way travel slides/google NKBA guidelines/starcraft illustrated Accuride 24" glides on another site If you are considering a structural change, maybe extend the side porch and move the door to the spot where the window (with AC) is, to give the entry more space and more direct route to living areas: Archived GW discussion (warning--some links broken)...See Morepowermuffin
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