If it is fresh mixed up cement it will burn the roots kill the grass or whatever is planted near it. EPA says it is toxic even dry because if it rains or snows then it becomes wet and it will burn and kill out that area if not properly cleaned up and (IF) a concrete Truck dumped it or washed their truck off in any spot then whatever is planted near it that the roots will and can come in contact with will more than likely die. Cement burns and blisters the skin if it comes in contact and it will blister and burn killing vegetation in and around it and should be dig out until soil looks free of any wet or dry cement. I know I had the EPA come out because someone reported the cement truck cleaned his truck near their property to mine but still a distance in my property not going onto the property of that neighbors and then the contractor come out to that same area to rinse their wheelbarrows and shovels rinse it out saturated the ground using water to rinse and epa fined the contractor & cement company and now they have to pay loads of money to clean it up and restore my neighbors property even though their property hasn't come in contact with the saturated soil because it was my property because the epa said it could yet kill their weeds and grass through extension of the roots growing under the soil on my yard. Even though many states oh it wont hurt it it's lime well think again the EPA Laws states different that it is toxic

I should probably have followed up - appreciated the advice here. I was able to pull it out just as described and it turned out OK. My main problem turned out to be that the existing door, and wall in that area, was over 1" out of plumb from top to bottom - that part was a nightmare. But I was able to rip some brick molding and had to build a bit of an extension as well since the original jamb and storm and other bits ended up as a thicker wall. I was even able to keep the top drip edge (I still need to clean up the edge to look nicer). It also turned out the wall studs behind that white trim to the left of the door were rotted at the bottom from water pooling on that step and from chipmunks digging out underneath (no rot from normal weather hitting the door and sill from outside though due to the big overhangs). So I built a form and repoured to fill in the gaps and reform threshold - that part actually came out really well I think. The original was from 1960 and really hadn't rotted anywhere except for the pooling which I addressed, so I think this fix should at least survive me (50).

Change orders are a necessary means of documenting any departure from the contract documents. They should include a description of the change as well as the cost and schedule implications of the change. The degree of detail is something you need to work out with your contractor.

Thanks for the input! I like the visual of the drapes and rod. I don't know if it would work here or not. I found a photo of the same floor plan, just reversed, that better shows the wall straight on. Any thoughts on treating the windows differently, like using the faux wood horizontal blinds on the side windows, the same as the rest of the house, but treating the slider and possibly the transom above it with a roman shade, or sliding panels for the middle section? Or one vertical blind for both the sliding patio door and the transom above it, mounted outside and above the transom look best? I am on a budget but also don't want to put up something that is going to look worse than no window dressing at all. My realtor thought it maybe should be a faux wood blind on top of the patio door and a separate blind on the door, How would it look, or mount, for a vertical blind on the slider, with no wall space on either side for mounting or stacking? Sorry for all the questions but my thoughts are going too many directions!