I love that faucet! I think it would look great with a farmhouse sink. This is the faucet I am putting in tomorrow; I have had pull out sprayers before and am not thrilled with the way they wobbly and loose over time so I opted for the separate sprayer this time. I liked the look of it better than my other Menards options (had store credit to burn) but I like that it sets up a little higher so that I can get pots and whatnot under it easily in my shallower sink, and I did not want a high gooseneck type myself. Here is a link that might be useful: My faucet

There is no one answer to your question. The variables are: -- depth of sink front to back -- front panel and sides of sink and whether those permit bumping out (not all farm sink sides are the same nor all the front panels the same) -- way the sink will be mounted under/flush with/or above the counter --interior cabinet construction -- how the faucet operates and how it will be installed. --faucet stem thickness can be an issue or sometimes there is a flange underneath to hold the faucet in place which needs clearance below. Perhaps you are aware that sinks and faucets have specification diagrams (we call those downloads) with all this critical installation information. My suggestion is to download the diagrams for each sink under consideration and read them very carefully. The inside measurements of the sink cannot be used for this purpose -- anyone who tells says such and such is ok without consulting the diagram I wouldn't trust. The person who orders and specifies the cabinets should also be given copies of those sheets as well as all the spec sheets for appliances (you likely know this but just in case). I made a booklet of those for the designer plus 2 others -- one for the plumber and one for the contractor. No one can say they don't have the right info. Likewise, download the spec sheets for any faucet considered. Pay special attention to the thickness of the faucet stem and the way the faucet operates. F.ex. some faucets turn on by pulling sideways but alo need to swivel from front to back to go from cold to hot. There must be enough space behind the faucet to permit that. Or, since you're concerned about leaning in, perhaps it would be a good idea to look at one of the Grohe faucets that can be front mounted -- that is with the control facing in and over the sink. That can be very helpful when space is tight.

A 33” width sink is actually not that wide - compared to some sinks we see on here. One pull-down faucet is fine and you will be able to spray the entire sink. You do not need two faucets for a 33” sink. I think it would look too crowded. I also like the Kohler Artifacts faucet because it is a traditional look, but still looks good with a kitchen with transitional elements. While your Shaw’s sink is quite traditional, your granite is somewhat contemporary, so you want a faucet that can look good with both. The Hansgrohe Joleena you mentioned is a contemporary faucet, not transitional. That’s fine too, just wanted to give you more to think about.

Let's assume the flange on that sink is 1 1/4". The positive reveal appears to be about 3/4" thick, meaning about 1/2" of flange is under the countertop. That means the front of the faucet hole could start about 5/8" back from the countertop edge, leaving a little space to avoid drilling the flange. The faucet nut could be shimmed opposite the flange as it's tightened against against both. That would probably put the faucet escutecheon 1/4" away from the countertop edge. That would mean the faucet is coming forward 2-3"