The IWL16 is of a design that F&P has had on the market for many years, so all the "bugs" have essentially been worked out. An extended warranty in this case is largely price-protection on replacement parts. Your decision whether that's a cost-effective value to you. Parts prices tend to rise over time, particularly the older control boards when new models are released that use newer/different boards. F&P boards are largely reliable (see below). My 9-years-old GWL08 is running the original board (and pump), as is my 4.5-years-old IWL12 and 6-years-old DD603 dishwahser. A good quality surge suppressor should be used on any electronic appliance. The main sources of concern are the pump, diverter valve, and water valves. The pump and diverter can get clogged by accumulated lint (particularly if very linty items are washed often, such as throw rugs or worn/stringy towels). An easy DIY job to clear a clog. A diverter gone bad will prevent proper draining or recirculation of the water. A leaking pump can throw a shock into the controller board, which requires both parts be replaced. A visual observation of the pump every 6 months or so (perhaps every 3 months as the machine gets older) for signs of leaking is a good idea as defense against an $80 repair vs. a $200 repair. If any indication of a leak at the pump is noted, unplug and stop using the machine and replace the pump immediately. I've run across several cases of water valves gone bad (none of mine have thus far), but they're also an easy and inexpensive DIY. The valves and temperature mixing chamber are inside the control console next to the board, so a flood in there can kill the board, but that's not common. Typically a bad valve just doesn't run the water with enough flow.

I have the previous generation IWL12, coming up on 3 years old. (I also have an older GWL08, no repair or trouble ever with either one). The "16" has a slightly better EnergyStar rating then the "12" possibly due to programming differences. My "12" defaults to a deep rinse and has somewhat high target water temperatures (warm is 115°F, warm/hot is 125°F). The "16" may have lowered temperatures and/or it may default to the shower-rinse mode. The IWL series (Intuitive Eco) is *extremely* versatile. Running a standard wash is a matter of pressing Power and Start. The machine runs a "normal" soil cycle with a warm EcoActive wash followed by a cold deep wash. It automatically figures out the required water level and an appropriate agitation speed, and finishes with a 1000 RPM spin. There are a large array of options, and some preset/programmed cycles for specific laundry chores. Grass/Protein stain for example runs a cold EcoActive followed by a warm deep wash. Allergy runs a hot Ecoactive followed by a warm/hot deep wash and has extra rinsing. Muddy runs a cold prewash, EcoActive, and deep wash, and has two deep rinses with extra spray rinses. Six water temperatures -- tap cold, controlled cold, warm/cold, warm, warm/hot, and tap hot. Five manually selectable water levels, plus automatic. An option for a "traditional" wash which skips the EcoActive phase and runs a standard deep-fill wash at the selected temperature. Six selectable soil levels, including Stained which runs several alternating periods of agitation and soaking. Choice of one deep rinse, two deep rinses, or shower rinse options. Time Saver which cuts cycle time in half. The shower rinse option has several further choices for volume of water used. A 2-hr soak function. A six-minute cold prewash. Drip Dry which pauses before the final drain so selected items can be removed before the final spin (the machine beeps for attention as a reminder). Creasables option (for Perm Press or any wrinkle-sensitive items, it runs a higher water level and slow spin). Handwash runs a VERY gentle agitation. Woolens runs a cycle suited for those items, altho the agitation is more aggressive than Handwash. I don't have any cashmere or wool clothing, but for such items that are intended washable, the Handwash selection would provide appropriately gentle handling for even the most delicate item.

The "tiny" spring you're feeling is likely the bias spring which attaches to the tub from the front left corner. It's not the only support involved. There are four spring-cushioned struts supporting the tub from the four corners. It's not clear to me what you mean by your question "Should the drum be able to hit side to side with at least 3"? If you're asking if there's only about 3" of space between the tub and cabinet, that's correct. Level the machine by placing a spirit level along the seam between the cabinet and the machine's plastic top. Or, let it fill a little, to your choice of a row of holes in the basket, then adjust the leveling so the water hits that row of holes all the way around.

Well I have neither,but my neighbor has the F&P and loves hers. She said it has a 2 year warranty plus she bought the extended warranty for 4 more years. It is very electronic with control boards and all that stuff. My sister has a Speed Queen and she has never bragged on a washer before until she got this one. She loves it cause it has a large tub and a 3 year warranty. It also is more like the older T/L since it doesn't have all the control boards to go out and cause those problems. You will just have to weigh the +'s and -'s that work/don't work for you and go from there. I think you would like either one. For me I would go with the Speed Queen for the simplicity. I have a front/load now and love it but I have had control board issues and they are costly if not covered with a warranty.