You will be fine. In reality no matter what size handle you are using it will attach with two points (handles that is, not knobs). The size of the hardware will be the same for regular handles. The longer handles provide more comfort when opening a heavy item. On a DW you are not applying much more force than you would on a heavy silverware drawer. Only when you step up to appliance pulls designed for fridges do they increase the size of the screws that attach the handle.

"Anyone who wants flush installation of appliances should read the installation instructions, many of which say that 25" from wall is required for flush integrated installation." Correct ! but you simply stated that any brand would be fine and went out of your way to promote the KA as an acceptable solution - when in fact it is not for the look the majority of people are after when they want a disappearing DW. This is not simply a case of foreign vs. domestic cabinetry or the depth of the Euro's being less. The N.A. standard carcass depth is 24" Period! Add to that the typical door of 3/4" and the KA simply WILL NOT WORK in that depth if one want to maintain a constant plane across the run of cabinets! I won't even go into trying to integrate a KA into framed inset cabinetry. It ain't pretty. "Miele's DW's may be easier to seat flush in a 24" cabinet, but their warming drawer doesn't. " Correct again! They did a piss poor job of implementing this product, and there are several better choice out there. but........................this discussion isn't about warming drawers or Miele! I could list you a dozen products in a minute or two that fail miserably in the marketplace, so what ??? "For the custom handle, any custom panel appliance will work. For flush installation, read the installation instructions to know the depth requirements!" Wow, what a revelation, thanks for playing. hey dodge - I TOTALLY disagree with you re: KA and Miele having the same quality - especially in DWs. KA has been steadily going downhill in quality the last decade and especially in the last 5 years. KA DWs of the 60's and 70's were very very good. Some of the early 80's gear was still top drawer too. Since Hobart's divestiture of the division things have not been as solid. This is also from personal experience, and I guarantee you I have, see in the field , and go through a lot more DW's than 99.9% of the public. Leaving your marketing bias out of it, you actually think KA's pumps, seals, racks, latches, stainless steel , fit and finish , and warranty are equal to Miele's ???

If you can remove it, get a can of Rustoleum and spray paint it white. You al;so have the option of using a piece of the wood toekick that matches all the rest of the white trim. If it doesn't come off, I'd get a piece of thin facing -- I wish I could think of what to call it, but I've seen it at Home depot sold in sheets. Some even comes already white. All you'd need to do is have it cut to size and stick on some velcro. The stuff is no more than 1/8 inch thick, so it's not going to stick out. You could also have a piece of metal cut to that size, paint it and stick it up the same way (or with magnets). It's really a very simple fix.

Talley: I'm sorry you are experiencing this. When we were looking for a DW to replace our broken Whirlpool last winter, I found that American made DWs made to accept a panel were to deep (front to back) to remain flush with the cabinet run once the wooden panel was installed. I was advised to buy a Meile. The interior is noticably smaller, the front to back depth is shorter by about 2" (as I recall). Since I wanted to biggest interior I could find (family of nine), I purchased a SS KitchenAid and just gave up on the integrated look. We did not have the time to wait for the panel, this was during the holidays and we just needed a DW, not another project. That being said, if I had more time, I would have done an integrated DW and if necessary, I would have removed the sheet rock from behind the DW to create a larger space to accommodate the door. Perhaps you can take measurements and figure out if you can remove drywall and studs (you would need to create horizontal sills in the walls if you remove a stud, or maybe your could simply turn the stud 180 degrees within the cavity). Or maybe taking out the drywall would be enough. I don't think it would affect any of the electrical or plumbing, but might make the sound level rise. Tally, I hope this doesn't become a large project for you. What does the cabinet maker who made to door panel think? Can you return the DW if need be or is that a final sale? PS Still using the MS PTouch regularly and so thankful for it!