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How to make this window treatment

15 years ago

How would you suppose I could make this window treatment? I bet it is a 'custom' treatment but I also bet it is do-able. Any ideas?

front view:

{{!gwi}}

side view:

{{!gwi}}

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Comments (11)

andee_gw
15 years ago
The pictures are too small to see any detail.
powermuffin
15 years ago
I get "this action has failed" message when trying to open pictures.
Diane
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I would skip curtains and just do two layers of shutters - one on the area below that remain closed, and the others over the real windows that can either have the louvers tilted, or be opened and folded back depending on the look you want. If the louvers are to be tilted, you may have to build out a little framing to mount the shutters to give a bit of depth. I would also not count on the windows for your lighting. You should have lots of lamps, some reflective surfaces like mirror or metal finishes on lamps and decor, that bounce light around the room. Squatty windows up high on the wall won't give enough light when people are sitting to really make the area feel warm and cozy.
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If you have access to a serger they're easier to work with on large fabric than a machine. They also make a sturdier (washable) product. But they're not essential. Really you're making a couple of large rectangles so it's not too hard. You are thinking correctly, go ahead and use a bit of a liner in the top (nothing too stiff so they still flow easily). I'd do two panels personally since they look better pulled to each side than one pulled to one side on a window/door of this size. I'd line them with blackout fabric if I were making them. It gives you a nice finished white back and gives the correct body to the drapes so they look expensive :) Cut the lining about 2" smaller on each side so that the front forms a frame on the back side and then go about 2" on the top, and give yourself about six inches extra on the bottom. Add your liner to the top and then sew them like a pillow case, bottom side open. (Front of fabric to front of fabric) then turnside out (leaving the correct fabric showing, and iron into shape, then whip sew the hem by hand to the lining for a professional finish. You'll become addicted and sew for the entire house soon :oP Even light fabric is heavy in bulk. You'll really want to watch your tension as you sew (hopefully you have a good machine or a serger). What happens often is that people pull their fabric through (never do that) and the tension gets off so that at the very end of the piece, you'll see that the seams don't line up right (one side shorter than the other etc). If possible sew so that the fabic is landing on a table behind the machine verses falling down over the edge of one, which causes the same tension issues...thus causing YOU tension...and making you resort to drinking and sewing...which is dangerous and stuff ;oP
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Your best bet is to do a Google search for measuring windows. Much easier to look at the illustrations given, and the instructions from experts, which you can print out. Drapery sites will definitely have instructions. And be sure to measure each window individually. They can be slightly different -- especially important if you decide to do shades, blinds or shutters. My preference would be to have two panels for each window. How did you envision how one panel would work?
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Snbtwins, your best bet is decide the length of the rod, where you want the panels to start and stop. Since you are having the panels custom made, I would suggest you use that measurement to figure how many lengths or half lengths of fabric you want the panels to be. When I make panels I prefer them to be at least double the width they were cover. Since you will not be closing them, that would be from the edge inside edge of the window trim to the finial. Measure from arrow to arrow and double (or 2.5 times) to get width of finished panel.
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equest17
15 years ago
The picture is really tiny, so I can't quite make out the details. It looks like a cornice board with a curved interior. If so, I would use plywood for the cornice frame and wiggle board for the interior curve, pad it with polywrap or Dacron, and upholster it with the fabric of choice. The panels could be mounted to the wall underneath on short rods, or shirred up and just stapled on the backside to the bottom edge of the cornice. That would be my method, if indeed the picture is even what I think it is!

Sarah
pam-md
Original Author
15 years ago
I might have violated GW ettiquette here. I went to see if I could find where I got that picture from to see if I could get a bigger version. I got it from someone's gallery who I believe is a poster here. I am truly sorry if I shouldn't have posted those pictures. I do love the treatment and would love to emmulate it if possible.

-Pam
pam-md
Original Author
15 years ago
Here is a direct link to this person's pictures. I guess it is okay since the pictures are out on the internet anyway. If it's not, please let me know so I don't do it in the future.

Thanks,

Pam

Here is a link that might be useful: Window Treatment
oceanna
15 years ago
It is a padded cornice board. It starts with very thin (keep the weight down) plywood. Then it's covered with padding, then the fabric is stapled on.

Here is a link that might be useful: videos on how to do cornice boards on youtube
equest17
15 years ago
Now that I can see it better, it doesn't look as though it has a return on the interior curve, nor one on top, as most do as a "dust catcher". This would be even easier, though maybe not quite as sturdy. You could just trace the front pattern onto thin plywood, as oceanna said, cut it out with a jigsaw, and attach two straight sides for the return to the wall (usually 6"-8", if drapes are to be hung underneath). Then pad and cover with fabric. I've done quicky cornice boards from foam insulation board also, but it really needs the top return to be stable. If you use foam board, you can use hot glue and straight pins to assemble. If you use plywood for the frame, you can sometimes get away with using thin carpet padding as a cheap substitute for polywrap if you're not going for a soft, plushy look. Hope all that's not too confusing.

Sarah
pam-md
Original Author
15 years ago
Thank you!

I will let you see it when I do it! (Maybe, if it turns out LOL)
linnea56 (zone 5b Chicago)
15 years ago
equest17, what is wiggle board?
equest17
15 years ago
Linnea, wiggle board is a thin, flexible sheet wood. It's often used in window treatment or upholstery applications where you need a curve. It can be hard to find, but drapery or upholstery shops can usually get it for you. I sometimes substitute small wooden nailing blocks lined with heavy cardboard. Either method works well for making arched or curved edges, as on headboards or cornices.
terezosa / terriks
15 years ago
I don't see where you would need to bend the board at all. Simply cut a curve at the bottom of the cornice. If there was a curve at the top you would need to bend the dust cover board at the top, but that is not the case here.

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