"Miele W1, Miele Little Giants or Miele Professional will all provide proper heating of the water to the temp selected. No need to set house common water heater to an unsafe temperature." Miele has temp options Cold tap, 85, 105, 120, 140, and sanitary 170. Very customizable, and heater wastes no time going to work. Most machines you have no idea what the temps are at all period. If a huge drum which most do not even utilize is not important to you, Miele is the bomb. It will hold as much as a full size top loader.

"....able to wash with high temp...." If your idea of "high temp" is above 155-160F, your choice will be limited to 220v machines. If you want to be able to personally select a particular temperature in a cycle as opposed to selecting whatever the mfgr's euphemism for a cycle may be, you're almost limited to Miele. Almost everybody else offers only "cold"/"warm"/"hot" as selections available but they DO NOT tell you what they mean by those words. For example, my Duet 9400 set on "hot" in a cycle that doesn't utilize the on-board heater actually delivers 100-105F max during the wash. That's not what I call "hot". I do have two cycles available that deliver actual temp of 127F and another that goes to 157F but I had to call and badger the phone-tech in order to be advised what those temps actually were. Be sure you know what your machine will actually deliver.

I have the exact same issue but performed a few different troubleshooting steps that were not mentioned here. To begin, this is a rental home built in 1972. All aluminum wiring with some copper for lighting overhead that was updated in 2009. My washer is brand new, LG high efficiency & overpriced. I’ll add that I have a matching oversized LG gas dryer too. They both plug into 1 receptacle with the a top and bottom outlet. This is wired back to the breaker box as 2 20 amp circuits. They share a neutral wire. The circuit breakers were old and not joined with any bar that physically connected the two switches into one so that one off makes both off. The receptacle was old, loose and burnt up some. And even more concerning, the tab on the line (right side) was not broken to properly separate the top and bottom circuits. Luckily I didn’t find out the hard way. Although the panel was not labeled/correctly, I went through process of elimination by turning everything off and then testing one breaker one at a time and matched to outlet(s)& lighting it controlled. I assume that someone replaced this laundry receptacle at least once in the distant past and forgot to break the right tab. I replaced the receptacle with a new 20 amp outlet and broke the tab on the right side only. There is a red & black wire (on right with tab connecting top to bottom removed) and one shared neutral wire that is white (on left with tab intact.). It is also grounded of course. I also replaced the two circuit breakers in the box with new and specifically for this type of setup. It has the bar that physically joins the switches for off and on. I also checked and tightened all neutrals in the panel. But even after all that, the damn dimming still occurs when agitating. I should add that all my lighting is LED too. Here is the last important clue that I would think others could try too. I was doing some laundry and it had just started to agitate and dim like always. Just as a temporary measure, I paused the cycle & then hooked my washer up with an extension cord to another nearby circuit. It’s about ten feet away and it’s a heavy duty cord but was my last straw of an idea to check & was not a permanent arrangement. Anyways, the washing machine worked fine and there was no dimming throughout the entire cycle. I left it like that for a few days and it continued to perform without dimming the lights. Additionally, this dimming would occur whether the dryer was also being used or when it was off. Keep in mind that they share one neutral. I tested both the top and bottom outlets and the readings all indicate a grounded correct setup. There is no open neutral. I still don’t know why it does this but believe it is definitely related to wiring, not machine. Perhaps i also need power company to come out like person above had when their issue was resolved. I’m moving to purchased home in a matter of weeks so the landlord can decide how to proceed from here. just to give you an idea of the mess this was....

Need more info on the machine. Brand/model number or pictures. Unless there's something unusual about it, washers won't start agitating the load until the water fills to the correct level regardless of how slow it runs in. Use of prewash depends on how much soil is in the load. It's appropriate for example if the items are muddy or greasy from auto mechanic work, etc. HE detergent is OK for non-HE machines but may require a slightly larger dose due to the larger volume of water.