Along with using plant markers, which I push in deep to keep from fading, I also use a garden diagram. I sketch in a space for each plant, larger for those that need root room, then number it. I have a key list of plants with their numbers. Then I also do one that is numbered , but also has a description of the plant/flower including the name of the person/store/company I got it from and any particular notes a trader gave me. I use a binder with dividers and clear front and back pockets. The clear pockets have the diagrams of my yards including each bed (these are done with just plain old graph paper, in pencil for the plant spots, the permanent stuff is done in ink). Just to give me an overall quick look. Inside the binder there's a larger, stiffer piece of graphed poster board (found these at Wal-Mart with the poster boards, they're used to put together a well spaced and balanced presentation) These have individual beds in larger detail. These fold in half and with the aid of a hole punch fit into the binder. On the back is a description of each bed and it's name so I can find the right one at a glance. Then I can flip open the edge without the holes and use the diagram without needing to remove it from the binder. In another section of the binder is a copy of my trade/swap log to help me remember what I got from whom. This includes details like names/store/catalog, GW IDS, addresses, agreed seeds/plants/cuttings, when I mailed out, when I received, what was received, including any extras :) Another section has my garden journal. Details on what I've planted, seeds, plants, how well it's done, weather notes, etc. Another section is reserved for photos of my beds. Sometimes I think taking the pictures and being able to look them over gives me a better feel sometimes for what works well together than standing right in front of it looking! Another section has ideas for new beds or plants. It's my "corkboard" for brainstorming or just things that I don't want to forget. Everything from random thoughts about something to check into to suggestions and advice received here. Things like responses to my tomato and amending questions, things that others have asked about and the suggestions given to them :) This section is full of tabbed things to where I can keep it somewhat organized. Yeah, I know, probably lots more info than you wanted, but I'm rather OCD, and this all helps keep me organized and on track and to not feel overwhelmed when I'm planning/undertaking a large project. I also have an area that I use for my seedlings in case my markers disappear from them. I have an area that we're going to use for wintersowing sketched out as well. Each winter sow pot will be marked in similar to my yard plans with numbers to help me in the event my markings fade off of the containers. I also keep a copy of all of this on a CD in case the originals are ever damaged. LOL, you'd think with all this, I'd manage to get my trade list updated, wouldn't you? That's coming, I promise! I just got way behind on that with the wedding and haven't been able to catch up yet! Kathy

I forgot to mention the oil. IF I were you, I'd look for 30 wt, since you live in SD. I prefer a diesel rated or high mileage oil, since they have some anti-wear additives that can't be used in cars with catalytic converters. I think they are ideal for small engine use. A new plug can "fix" a multitude of ills. I think it's about the most "cost effective" way to throw money at an engine and often works! IF the poor running persists, you might want to dump a strong dose of carb cleaner in the gas tank. Only use enough gas in the tank that you can effectively use up when doing this. I stored my tiller with a "strong dose" of carb cleaner and the tank was badly rusted the following Spring. The CCleaner was the only thing different in my "procedure", so I blame it.

Hoyas are tough. That's why we can mail cuttings through the mail with no problems. So I wouldn't worry too much about the move. As for the problems you're having, are you putting your plants (and rooted cuttings) in smallish pots? Too much soil for the root system is hard on Hoyas. They need to be somewhat potpound to be happy. And the soil needs to be a very loose soil mix. In the wild, most of them grow up trees and root in debris (bark, twigs, decomposing leaves) in the crotches of trees, where water just washes through and doesn't linger. So keeping that in mind, make your mix as airy as possible. It's better to have a mix with some bark and/or perlite added that dries out faster so you have to water more often than to have a heavy mix that will suffocate the roots. Good luck with your move to Alaska. (And with your new cuttings...) Denise in Omaha

Here are a couple pics which I took today. This is an area of my yard where I've set boulders side-by-side and then poured a concrete exposed-aggregate sidewalk between them. The boulders are between 3 ft. and 9 ft. in diameter, and weigh up to 18,000#. All of the boulders I've loaded, hauled, and set in place myself. (You can see the pergola I've built, in the background.) Just for reference, the weight of limestone is 158# per cubic foot. The weight of quartz and granite is 168# per cubic foot. So if you take measurements of the rock you want to move, you can get a rough idea of how much it weighs. This granite fieldstone measures about 20 x 20 x 30 and weighs about 1000#. It can be easily loaded by hand and hauled to my house on a small trailer.