I just installed KM antique oatmeal w/ ebony glaze. I LOVE them!! I was reluctant about my decision, but I am very happy with my choice. There are portions of the cabinets where the ebony glaze is more prevalent, but that is what I like about them. It gives them a more Old World feel. I will have to say that are more whitewashed looking than I expected. They look much darker in the KM idea book. You will have to be careful when picking paint colors and countertops. I went with Silestone-black canyon for the cabinets. Granite didn't work for me. The island will be antique onyx cabinets with a butcherblock counter. I really don't have much to show yet as just the cabinets are in, no counters, molding or appliances. I bought a majority of my cabinets at the KM outlet in Lordstown, OH for a steal. I'm not sure I would have paid the extra $$. Hope this helps.

I know that this topic is getting beat to death, but I feel I must weigh in. If you are doing a painted door you be best off doing a hybrid door, maple or birch rails with a mdf center panel. The stiles and rails will be more durable while the center panel will not show lines from the stave expansions. Cracking is inevitable with the joints, however they can be so slight, that they are not visible, and you can only feel them when you run your hand over them, A flexible finish like latex paint instead a pigmented catalyzed varnish will be more flexible and be less prone to chipping in the future. Plus it is easier to touch up. If you are glazing with a hand rub method you will achieve a better look with catalyzed varnished because they tend to yield a smoother finish. If anyone thinks that a painted finish on a mitered joint with biscuits, will never show finish fractures, than they are naive! A mitered joint is the worst possible joint for a painted finish, mortise and tenon would be a much wiser choice. If the wood at a miter joint contracts then they both contract in the same direction, thus creating the possibility for a joint fracture in the finish. Montalvo, please keep in mind when Khat is talking about cracking the reference is to finish fracturing NOT joint failure. It is possible to have finish fracturing without joint failure. This is why NO door manufacturer or cabinet company would ever warranty against this. The movement of kiln dried wood can be very significant when there is even small moisture changes, With hard maple being one of the worst. If you would like I can post the chart information if you would like evidence. To think that a cabinetmaker would not be using kiln dried wood or making mitered joints without an additional joint lock is ridiculous, they would not be a cabinetmaker, they would be an amateur woodworker.

I like glazed walls and am definitely an amateur--with a little experience. The easiest method, to me, is start with, for example, a BM pearl finish undercoat, and then take one of the metallic glazes, and cut it with one of the clear glazing mixtures--about 30 to 50 percent. You have to be pretty quick, and agile: have a stool handy. Roll on your glazing mixture top to bottom, and then hop on your stool with a long wallpaper brush--one that is about 30 some inches. In one gesture, move from top to bottom in one fell swoop. Repeat until your legs give out! You should practice on a piece of foam core or something like that to ascertain the percentage of color that you want....because once you start, if you get it wrong, you will see where you have played with the glaze too much--and you'll have to do the whole wall to make it look even. In my experience, metallics are unforgiving about "do-overs". They start to accumulate unevenly...

On the topic of cabinet finish.. as many stated the finish from the manufacturer will far surpass an onsite paint job. It is true you seem to save if you paint yourselves, but through the upgrade option, do you also get internal upgrades? Is all the hardware soft close (hinges and drawers) Is your overlay a full or standard? Look up cabinet construction Another question -if you switched out cabinets after- is the countertop. If you plan on a solid surface, removing cabinets to switch out after the fact could be VERY expensive... 1- can the stone be salvaged, 2-If not you will have the cost of a whole new countertop! I also considered doing things to the kitchen after we moved in and opted out of that.. Boy was I glad. Life moves fast and when you move in you really want to move in. I'd go with builder and what you really want and avoid all the small surprises that will arise doing work after the fact. Good luck in your process!!