The only way I know to do it is to play with it. I've faux finished several rooms and they never come out as I first expect, and it's always a process of trial and error. For color, get samples and play with that first, but for technique, you'll just have to try it on the wall, especially since you won't be able to replicate the texture. I've used sponges, plastic bags, dry brushes, rags and anything else I can think of to achieve the look I want. If it's a small room, try the acrylic craft paints that come in metallic finishes. They actually can go pretty far as a top coat. I used them to do my old bathroom walls and it came out nice. Many people thought it was wallpaper instead of paint.

Also, one of the toughest parts of faux finishing is corners, esp up by the ceiling, so in my old bedroom, what I did was after I did the finish, I painted the ceiling color down onto the wall by about an inch. I then went to the automotive parts store and bought adhesive pin striping which I attached to cover where the 2 colors came together. It came out looking much nicer than the smoochy result I was getting otherwise.

Thanks Annie. This may be too much to consider at this late in the game but I'd REALLY like the idea. I thought you could buy a (bronze) tinted glaze and apply it to the wall over your base color. In 2002 I used a product like that to wash over a cream colored wooden vent hood in the kitchen. We're ready for the painter NOW. Speaking of the painter, when I asked him about this, he said I'd want to use a semi-gloss as my base coat. Eggshell or satin holds on to too much of the glaze(???) But everything I've read on-line says to use a satin or eggshell.

Satin would probably be good...

I like this Ralph Lauren Metallic Bronze paint. Could this be mixed with a glaze?

Sorry, looks like I still can't embed a photo on the gardenweb side of Houzz

Ralph Lauren Metallic Bronze Paint

You're really going to just jump in with both feet and try it. That's why I suggested playing with acrylics first as they are inexpensive and will afford you some practice and playing to see what look you might want to achieve and how to go about getting it. Go to a craft store and you'll find the metalllic acrylics there. Usually about $1 for a little bottle.

The point of a glaze is to thin the paint so there's less material per inch. It will look different as it lessens the intensity of the color. (think less dots of paint per inch) It also helps keep the paint from drying so quickly so you can play with it longer. But it isn't necessary to use a glaze at all depending on the technique you are using and the look you are going for.

I'd get some scrap sheet rock or even foam core and paint it in your base wall color. Let it dry, and then start playing. You'll be amazed at what you will come up with.

And remember, it's just paint. If you make a real mess of it, you can always repaint.

I like glazed walls and am definitely an amateur--with a little experience. The easiest method, to me, is start with, for example, a BM pearl finish undercoat, and then take one of the metallic glazes, and cut it with one of the clear glazing mixtures--about 30 to 50 percent. You have to be pretty quick, and agile: have a stool handy. Roll on your glazing mixture top to bottom, and then hop on your stool with a long wallpaper brush--one that is about 30 some inches. In one gesture, move from top to bottom in one fell swoop. Repeat until your legs give out! You should practice on a piece of foam core or something like that to ascertain the percentage of color that you want....because once you start, if you get it wrong, you will see where you have played with the glaze too much--and you'll have to do the whole wall to make it look even. In my experience, metallics are unforgiving about "do-overs". They start to accumulate unevenly...