I don't think I have a photo from the same angle as your shower, but this may help. This is our master shower. The wall with the shower head and handle held shower bar is 44" wide. (That is the wall opposite the controls.) The pony wall is 27" wide and 59" tall. The pony wall plus glass door is 55" long. That means our shower is about the same width, but yours will be longer. This is our basement shower. The wall with the shower head and handle held shower bar is 33" wide. The pony wall is 35" wide and 51" tall. The shower is 64" long. I don't use that shower. It is doorless and I have asked our guests if the water sprays out of the opening and have been told very little sprays out. I haven't asked about water getting on the plexiglass we have over the pony wall. Our shower has a glass door and based on the basement shower not spraying the floor, you would not think the entire width of the glass door would get wet. However, it gets wet when I shower and I use the handheld shower head, but stationary on the bar. My husband uses the rain shower head and he does not get splashes on the door, but he gets a tiny bit of splashing on the pony wall glass. I get no splashing on the pony wall glass. Your mileage may vary.

GREAT QUESTION and one I am sure is of interest to all. In the plumbing, pipe fitting and HVAC industries originaly the only pipe available was iron pipe. When comparing the volume of pipe sizes we must use a formula that considers the cross sectional area rather than the diameter thus each increase in pipe size approximately doubles the volume. The actual formula for comparison is: Large Diameter Squared divided by the Small Diameter Squared . Example 3/4" compared to 1/2" = (.75x.75)/(.5x.5) = .5625/.25= 2.25 From this we can see that a 3/4" pipe has 2.25 times the volume of a 1/2" pipe. Another basic rule of thumb, if you double the diameter you increase the volume by four times. Understanding that all pipe layout formulas were originally developed for iron pipe it then stands that as new materials became available they were manufactured in sizes that approximated their iron pipe equivalent thus we see copper, PVC, or CPVC listed in "Nominal" sizes. This means a 1/2" nominal copper pipe will be slightly different in size but for all intents and purposes it would meet the volume requirements of a 1/2" iron pipe thus we see the other piping materials listed in the same size variations as iron pipe. While we common think of the word "Schedule" as meaning a time table of events, properly the word Schedule means "A table" thus in the piping specifications each size of pipe is listed in a table of specifications and the number or letter indicates which table applies to the product in question thus we see iron pipe,PVC or CPVC pipe listed as Sched. 20, Sched.40, sched.80 etc. Rather than use the schedule numbers copper pipe is defined by a Letter indicating which table of specifictions apply. While the specifications are listed alphabetically Copper pipe is classified as Heavy Wall, Standard or Medium Wall, and Light wall. It was merely by co-incidence that copper pipe designations seem to be backwards: Example 1/2" Nominal Copper Pipe: TYPE k - Heavy Wall OD 0.625 ID 0.527 Wall thicknes .049 TYPE L - Medium Wall 0.625 0.545 .040 TYPE M - Light Wall. 0.625 0.569 .028 As you can see, even though the Type K heavy wall pipe has the thickest wall the ID of the pipe still remains slightly larger than its fractional designation but for the purposes of standardization all three types have the same OD so the fittings are interchangeable. Copper pipe is manufactured in two varieties. The 10ft long lengths of rigid copper pipe that we are most familiar with is properly called "Hard Drawn Copper Pipe". They also make 60' or 100' rolls of "Annealed Copper Pipe" and we must be very careful not to confuse Annealed Copper role pipe with Copper tubing which is made to an entirely different sizing standard. (Copper tubing is made to the ASTM-CTS standard--CTS =Copper Tubing Standard). FYI-While CPVC is manufactured to Pipe Standards the CPVC pipe that we commonly see in the hardware stores is also made to the CTS standard rather than Pipe standards. Primarily copper fittings are made in the hard drawn copper standard however there are copper fittings such as you describe which appear to have been cast rather than drawn or formed from copper pipe. These fittings are properly called "Wrought Copper fittings." Under the Uniform Plumbing Code (UPC) whenever copper pipe is run under a slab within the confines of a structure we must use wrought copper fittings and all joints must be brazed rather than soldered. Under both the International Residential Code and the Uniform Plumbing Code all three types of copper, K,L & M may be used for both Supply (the water line from a well or municipal main to the structure) and Distribution (Lines within a structure.) however the IRC only permits type M inside a structure if it is above ground. Type K-Heavy wall copper pipe can be obtained through most home supplies or hardware stores by special order or you can but it from a Plumbing or Heating Supply house but as a rule it is only used for applications that involve pressures or temperatures that exceed the allowable limits in general plumbing use. We commonly use type K roll pipe for direct burial supply lines but the use of type K in general plumbing within a structure would be considered serious overkill. While type L (med.wall) copper is considered the industry standard today in years past type M (thin wall) was considered the standard for residential service and type L was primarily used in commercial applications thus the overwhelming majority of residential structures that have copper pipe have type M thinwall pipe and even that has proven to provide 50+ yrs of service when properly sized and installed correctly. It is true that under some rare conditions copper pipe does exhibit wear in the form of pin holes, but in the final analysis it can also be said that those problems are directly attributed to water quality or in many cases improperly sized pipe which resulted in excessive velocity of flow. Copper pipe will exhibit internal wall erosion if the velocity of flow exceeds 10feet per second and it is for that reason that the codes now define a Fixture Unit method of determining proper pipe size. In regards to water quality. If you live in a region that has water quality issues that are detrimental to copper pipe, I must then wonder what those issues are doing to your general health as well. In my personal opinion rather than worry about finding a pipe that will tolerate those problems I think the homeowner and his or her family would be much better served to consider installing a water treatment system to correct the problem.

Preface/A Piece of Advice: When you post a layout for comments, please do not take the comments you receive personally. Everyone here is trying to help, not criticize maliciously. We want you to have a kitchen that, in the end, functions wonderfully well and looks nice overall. This may mean that some of us may tear apart your layout and rebuild it to what we think will work better, but it is done with good intentions. We are not the best at just "validating" someones layout, we are best at critiquing! I will warn you that most of us here are "function over form" (or "function first")...meaning we strive first for a functional layout and then fit the form or look around it. It is far easier to make a functional kitchen look nice than it is to make a nice looking but dysfunctional kitchen functional. So, if you are a form/looks over function person, be sure to state that when you post. Some people here think "function over form" means we want all kitchens to look the same....not true! What we do want is all kitchens to function well...which means that in 99% of the cases, the workflow is the same...and that will mean some similarities due to workflow. However, as each kitchen is unique, each will have its own unique quirks, etc. In the end, remember this is your kitchen. You do not have to make any of the recommended changes if you do not want to! [Note: If you are just posting for validation of your layout (i.e., you do NOT want comments that suggest changes), explicitly state that as well. If you do not, people will comment on it! Warning: People may comment anyway, it is tough to let a kitchen go that you think is dysfunctional and will cause angst later...especially if it is not yet installed and we think we can help. Bear with us, we are just trying to help!] ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ Layout Help We often get requests to help with layouts. Many of us enjoy doing this but it would help if you can post a copy of your floorplan or layout, preferably to-scale. The best place to start is to draw up your kitchen (to scale, if possible) either without cabinets & appliances if you do not know where to start or with your proposed new layout if you have something to start with. Regardless, measure and label everything...walls, ceiling height, widths of doors/doorways & windows, distances between windows, walls, doors/doorways, etc. If you cannot move plumbing or gas, mark them on your drawing as well. Mark all doors/doorways & windows (with dimensions) and label them as to where they lead. If they are actual doors, mark how they swing. It also would be helpful to see the connecting rooms, even entire first floor layouts (or whatever floor your kitchen is on), so we see how they interact with the kitchen and/or extend the kitchen feel and flow. Make note of traffic flows in and out of the kitchen Sample Layout Make a list of things like: What are your goals? E.g., more counter space, more storage, seating in the kitchen (island? peninsula? table?), etc. What is your family composition? Adults? Children? Age ranges of children? Current? Future? How many kitchen workers are there? Cook(s)? Cleanup? Helpers? Now? Future? (E.g., if you have young children, plan for them as teens for both "sizing" of seating as well as helping in the kitchen in general) Do you or anyone in your home cook? (No, this is not a facetious question. Some people do not cook and their kitchen is a show place only. If that is what works for you & your family, that's fine! We just need to know that.) How do you see your kitchen used? Just for cooking/cleaning up? Children doing homework while you cook? Party place? Do you entertain a lot? If so, formal? Informal? Do you want your kitchen to be a "hang out" place? Parties only? Everyday? Do you have a separate DR? Do you use it frequently? Infrequently? If infrequently, do you want to begin using it more frequently (e.g., for daily/nightly family meals)? Would you like to open up the kitchen to adjacent areas? Close it up? Do you plan to merge two rooms/areas (e.g., Nook and Kitchen into a Kitchen only) Where are you flexible? Can windows or doorways change size? Can they be moved or eliminated? Can windows be raised/lowered? Can any walls come down? Does the sink have to be centered under a window? Does it have to be under a window at all? Note: The more constraints you put on a space (e.g., sink centered under a window, not willing to move plumbing, electric, or gas lines), the fewer options there are. So, be sure any limitations/constraints you mention are true constraints. You could say you would like something to not be moved/changed or placed in a certain location, but if it is not a must or truly impossible, then mention it is a preference but that you would consider something different. BTW...do not assume something is "too expensive" to do...check around b/f assuming, you may be pleasantly surprised at how little it costs! (E.g., if you have a basement, moving water, etc. is generally relatively inexpensive.) If one can be fit... Do you bake a lot and do you want a Baking Center? Do you want a coffee/tea/beverage center? Do you want a snack center? What appliances do you plan on having (helps to figure out work flow, work zones, and types of cabinets...upper/lower vs full height, etc.) Range or Cooktop or Rangetop? Single or Double or no Wall Oven? Warming Drawer? MW? (Advantium, MW Drawer, OTR MW/Hood, countertop, built-in, shelf?) DW? Standard or drawers? If drawers, 1 or 2? Refrigerator (Top/bottom freezer, SxS, or all-fridge/freezer? Counter-depth (CD), standard-depth, or built-in?) Ventilation Hood? Other? Sizes of desired appliances (e.g., 30" or 36" or 48" cooktop; 36" or 42" or 48" wide or other Refrigerator? etc.) Pantry: Walk-in or cabinets? In the Kitchen or outside the Kitchen (e.g., Mudroom or hall)? ***** Very Important ***** Is there anything you: Cannot live without? Definitely do not want? Would like if you can find a way? This information will be valuable to not only you, but also any Kitchen Designers you may hire or talk to. Additionally, if you have been haunting the site, you will have noticed that we also help with almost all aspects of a remodel. If you do ask for help, then all of the above information will help us help you. Sometimes we stray from what you think you want to give you some ideas that you might not have thought of, but this is your kitchen and you can veto anything...we may argue for something (we are very good at that!), but in the end it is what you want. And remember, we are just giving you ideas and layout options, in the end when you finalize your design it is whatever you want and decide on! After all, this is your kitchen! [Keep this advice in mind if/when you use a Kitchen Designer or when dealing with a contractor--again, this is your kitchen, not his or hers...do not let them talk you into anything unless you are sure it is what you want!]

Thanks! I like the idea of the cooking things all together -- range, microwave, and Breville oven. @funkycamper -- I'm worried that the fridge location in your layout would encourage everyone to move through the cooking and prep zones to get snacks/drinks. Do you think so? My husband is concerned about venting across an interior wall and how it would do with cold air coming in (I'm in MA). Is there condensation? We can't vent through the ceiling because the bathroom is right upstairs, so it would need to go inside the top of the cabinets. How do "they" handle that? ETA: That main hallway leads from the bedrooms, front door, etc. The only thing to the left of the kitchen is the family room, and this is the only way in. There's a mudroom hallway/entrance right next to the family room entrance, but we only use that entrance going to/getting home from the school bus. Pretty much ALL traffic will come from the right lower corner of the kitchen in your layout. Also, when cooking, I was thinking the prep sink would be the wash area for hands after putting chicken into a pan, etc., but in this layout the prep sink is far, so we'd use the cleanup sink. I'll have to think more about this. @rebunky -- seeing this mockup, I LOVE the view into the kitchen! It's how our old house was. Cost-wise, though, I really don't think we'll be able to do it. We'll have to see once we get some estimates. Two more companies coming by today... @herbflavor -- I was thinking of covering that side wall with pantry cabinets, but I can see how it could look too imposing. My husband is pushing for a counter all along it, even though it would only be 12-13" deep. I saved a couple of pics showing something similar, but I don't remember where they are from (houzz at large, or from a GW post)... can I post them here anyway? @sena01 -- I'm going to show my husband your idea and see what he thinks. Thanks!