GE Washer-Can't change cleaning modes w/o draining!!!
goddi
12 years ago
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sshrivastava
12 years agogoddi
12 years agoRelated Discussions
Miele W1926 vs W1966 (which used washer to buy?)
Comments (18)Just an update: It's here, sitting proudly just off my living room, which is not where I had hoped for it to go. Try as I did, it is just too deep (front to back) to fit in my bathroom where my old washer is. So it will go near my galley kitchen. There's still alot of work to do to get it up and running. I need to add a 120-240V/15A circuit breaker (or a fuse or easy-install kit for the existing 240V outlet) and run new wiring. A means of attaching it to the kitchen sink to drink from and drain to. A Y-adapter to feed cold water to both the cold and hot inlets. (I've relegated most of my installation issues to this thread). My dryer - an old, small GE ventless unit - is starting to become unreliable too. If I find a decent used condensation dryer at a good price I may get that too. But here I see I run into a problem - evidently Miele hasn't made 6kg ventless condenser dryers. They have lots of 5kg condensation dryers, but I don't think they can be stacked atop a 6kg washer like the W1926. Correct? I'm in the dark about whether some sort of stacking kit is needed to stack a Miele dryer atop a Miele washer, and whether only certain combinations of W & D can be stacked. It appears it is although I can't find any references to specific model numbers and the stacked machines shown in their manuals don't seem to list any particular additional hardware, Anyone here familiar with this? And is stacking a non-Miele condensation dryer on a Miele washer verboten? Is there some sort of homemade mount you can build that will keep the dryer from sliding off? If I had a closet, I'd just build a shelf a few inches above the washer and be set. I could reverse the old layout - washer near kitchen, dryer in bathroom. Then I could use any brand. I have a 120V/15A dryer now but can go to a 240V condensation dryer that should increase my options considerably. Miele and Bosch seem to sell for much more secondhand than Asko or other brands. I'm also seriously confused about the plugs, outlet, and wiring required by the W1926. It's rated at 120-240V/15A, yet is fitted with a Hubbell NEMA 14-20P plug, the type normally found on a grounded 125V/250V 20A (not 15A) device. The electrical cord is a Carol 12/4 Type SJ (UL) (also listed as CSA Type SJ FT-2), with a sticker noting that the black and red wires are the L1 and L2 hots respectively, with a white neutral and green ground. Why not 14-gauge cable ending in a usual 240V/15A plug as Bosch uses? Further confusing things, the Miele owner's manual seems to indicate the plug is a NEMA 14-30P, the big ones normally found on 240V/30A dryer plugs. Could this not be the original cable or plug? The new double-pole circuit breaker should clearly be 15A but should 14-3 w/ground or 12-3 w/ground NM-B (Romex) cable be run? (I lean towards the latter since that's what the washer cord uses). I may have been better off with one of the 5kg Miele washers - it would have fit in my bathroom and I could stack a Miele condensation dryer over it eventually and save space. They are essentially alike only 4 inches shallower front to back, and with (even) higher spin speeds. But I hope to someday have a larger home and then I can take the W1926 with me and use any ol' normal vented dryer, and I'll be glad I have the extra space. The Miele really is nicely designed - very straightforward controls that tell you what they're doing - no "workout wear" or "kid's clothes" settings that leave you wondering what it's really doing. And of course, actual temperature markings, a rarity in U.S.-market washers. Can you imagine an oven that didn't show temperatures, just "cold", "warm", and "hot"?...See MoreWhat am I doing wrong with my new Miele w1986 washer?
Comments (18)I have a 220 volt Miele 1926a washer which sounds similar to yours (no honeycomb drum, etc.) We've been using ours for many years with none of the issues you are reporting. We've washed literally tons of clothes in our Miele, and haven't had any of the fraying or holes that you write about. We've got kids shirts and pants that have been through 3 different kids now, so if our washer was destroying them, they wouldn't have lasted this long. Are there any strange noises coming from the machine? Have you felt the drum to see if there are any sharp or broken parts? We've noticed that our front loader seems to cause less wear on our clothing than our previous top-loading agitator model. Your experience is puzzling to say the least. For wrinkling, I've found that the amount of time spent in the dryer has more effect on wrinkles than anything the washer does. Try drying for a longer time on lower heat. For cleaning issues, try changing detergents. I don't have any experience with BioKleen, but have had good results with Persil, Sears HE powder, and Costco (Kirkland Signature) Environmentally Friendly liquid. As for the rust stain, could it be a plumbing issue? How old is your home?...See MoreSamsung washers do use internal heater in normal modes
Comments (22)My WF218 that I did the original testing on is still going strong (just did three loads on this fine Saturday afternoon). My routine has adapted as follows: -Tankless hot water heater set to 140F. One of the benefits of tankless is no wasted energy on standby losses with higher setting. I don't run higher for risk of scalding my toddler in the tub or shower. -I don't have a laundry sink, but just noting that if I had one, like Todd above I would prime the hot water to get the standing cold water out of the pipes. I do this for my kitchen dishwasher, which is quite far from the water heater. -I have the cold water shutoff throttled down. It seems like the Samsung's still pull some from the cold water supply when you are filling for warm or hot. Not sure if this really helps, but I do feel like throttling it down nets more from the hot supply. Like someone mentioned you can't shut off cold completely, plus you need it for the rinses anyway. -I try to wash in larger loads, as the larger loads fill more water, and thus the cold standing water in the pipes becomes diluted with more hot water. -Lastly, since we don't wash towels separately, my wife doesn't use the Towels mode, and so when I do the laundry, I've basically taken over Towels mode as my full Manual mode. It has full access to all temps and settings, and will remember my last used settings, which I'll run 80% of the time in H/C, to net about a 120F wash for most laundry including colors. A 130F or 140F option would definitely be nice, but I've been OK with the 120F washes....See MoreMiele Washer W3037 versus W3038?
Comments (19)Will surely communicate what I find. My machine is totally different than yours. It has no separate rinse cycle so it was really important to get cycles and soap right or else my washes would take 3 hours each. One with soap; one without. In England there is a website comparable to Consumer Reports that tests appliances, Which? One thing I love about their testing is they include "rinsing" in the metrics. Considering reduced water levels, you'd think our reviews would cover that. I, too, do not care for scented detergent so Tide was a non-starter for me -- no matter how good Consumer Reports and Good Housekeeping think it is. And, the idea of optical whiteners gives me the creeps. I picture those Febreeze commercials with people loving the scent of the garbage heaps. The irony is that despite hard water (12 german grains), I use very little detergent (7th Generation Free & Clear powder and liquid and Ecover bleach). But my on-board heater works exactly as advertised so I get warm water rinses and the Miele service technician programed the machine to use the highest water levels available. I don't know what I'd do without a heated Delicates because that cleans my intimates. Your cheat sheet reflects what I have found regarding agitation levels. VERY different for different cycles. I RARELY use the Custom cycle because the agitation is robust. Can you imagine if we truly had the ability to control these machines? Set temperature -- and rely on the on-board heater to ensure it -- set agitation level, set water level, set duration, set number of rinses? Then all we'd need -- just like the old days -- would be a chemistry cheat sheet that reminded us which stains need a cool prewash and which need hot. Sigh...See Moremrb627
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