I like the layout you have now, but have questions and comments: - How wide is your master walk-in closet? It appears to be wider than necessary. You need 24" for clothing to hang on each side, and around 36" is nice and comfortable for a walking aisle (lots of closets have less). I'm thinking you might be able to steal some space from the closet's width and have a nice built-in bookcase at the top of the stairs. - I think you have entirely too many doors opening in the same spot: 2 bedroom doors, a laundry door, a closet and a bathroom. To compound the problem, you don't have laundry room space to hold baskets waiting to go into the laundry, so you're going to end up with piles of dirty clothes in this very spot! One option is to stack the laundry, allowing storage and folding space in the current space, but we hear lots of bad things about stacked laundry. I'd consider giving up the linen closet. You have ample space in both bathrooms to include a "linen tower" by the sinks. Or you could have a small linen closet in each bathroom by the sink -- I have a tiny 24" closet in my master bath, and it holds an amazing amount: hamper in the bottom, towels in the middle, blankets on the top shelves. And what if you flipped the bathroom so that the items were on the opposite wall? That would move the door a bit to the left, so that it wouldn't be right on top of the bedroom door. - I think your master bath toilet area is awfully narrow, and your shower (that's a shower beside the tub, right?) isn't particularly generous. I'd move the toilet across from its present position and give it a full 36" for comfort /ease of cleaning, reduce the over-abundant sink area, and allow the shower to stretch to a more comfortable size. - I would not compartmentalize the hall bathroom. When you do this, you end up with two tiny rooms, neither of which is comfortable. I'd rather have one nice-sized bathroom.

Thank you, Green Designs. Yes, the cross bracing would help, as well as added strength of metal brackets. Any suggestions whom to hire to do this? A carpenter I should think. I realize I forgot the helpful discussion I mentioned so here it is. Here is a link that might be useful: Link:

If you go to the Electrolux web site and download the installation manuals, they have excellent diagrams for clearance and closet installation. But be advised that with most venting arrangements, you won't actually be able to get the zero clearance on the back of the dryer. We used a GE venting kit, which has a reasonably quick turn elbow, but no way it could achieve zero clearance. The net result is about 5" clearance between the back of the machines and the wall, with water hoses running behind the vent hose. The water connections are recessed into the wall behind the machines. Front to wall total is about 35-36 inches; it's difficult to measure exactly because the door bowls out. Forty inches should be fine. Keep in mind Electrolux recommends at least an inch between any closet door and the front of the machines. I don't know whether the louvers on the closet door affect the thickness of the door.

Is there any way you can find out more information about the (floor) structure in your condo? Since your building is only 20 years old, your condo association (or your city's building department) may have records on file that could help you. I have the small Miele W3033 and absolutely love it. I'd highly recommend you explore that option first, especially if it fits your budget. Miele has installation specs online that may help, too.