AC in bedroom - where?
Jace33
11 years ago
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ionized_gw
11 years agoJace33
11 years agoRelated Discussions
Quiet window AC for bedrooms
Comments (3)Check the ratings on the major sites like sears, lowes, homedepot and amazon. Don't make a decision based on just db's. Anything within 10db's or so is not all that noticeable. You may want to place more priority on sizing and features. Also be careful if you decide to drill the pan. In many cases this is not necessary as the manufacturer has designed a means of draining already. Here is a link that might be useful: Portable AC Reviews...See MoreWhy can't the thermostat be in the bedroom (AC)?
Comments (5)Thanks for the reply tigerdunes. Here's my rationale: Night - bedrooms are same size and doors are closed. So the thermostat in the room should work well to reach comfortable temp in there. Day - door of master wide open and equivalent temp to hallway so should be able to get good temps throughout house. If anything, the supply is a bit bigger for the master as we are planning an addition (master bath/closet) in 1-2 years and he was accounting for that. Still stuck on why the recommendation is always to put in hallway when most people want ideal temp in their bedroom at night...See MoreHelp! GC put AC compressor under my bedroom window
Comments (58)(Sorry for the confusion about which post to reply to - I'm not familiar with forum ettiquet and had started a new thread when I should have stuck with this one). The 24anb6 is a single stage. All conversations are centered around a 3 ton unit. The ducts are in the attic space. The original house was 1140q ft. The addition is about 488q ft. The original house (1950s) has a metal ducting trunkline system that runs in a dropped ceiling in the 12' long central hallway. The new ducting is in a jumble in the attic of the addition, with a big box thing (a baffle?) and 4.5" ducts curling around everywhere - even back to the front rooms of the original house. Apparently code has changed and new 'jumper' vents needed to be installed in all the rooms? Before that ceiling was closed up, I got a glimpse up there and noticed that it looked like and orgy of Robby the Robots - probably not the most efficient thing ever. If it's true that with the ductwork currently installed would not support a more efficient unit in the future without ripping out walls, I think this makes an even stronger case for upgrading the equipment now. (I work at home and I plan on living at this house a long, long time.). I was told when to pick out plumbing fixtures, hardware, lighting, etc...I guess expected to be told when to decide on the other choices involved. If the GC had asked, I could be looking at paying 10 or 11K for exactly what I want - a 2-stage, high-efficiency, quiet unit. Instead I'm having to choose between paying nearly 9k for stuff I don't want or - it seems from this email - paying twice for the install and associated repairs in addition to the upgrade. I'm going to push for exactly what I want. The GC is working up estimates for the Carrier Infinity 17, 19, and 21 SEER units. I have no problem paying the difference in the cost of the equipment, or even the cost the have the install done 'right', which I assume means moving the trunkline up to the attic and having a single trunkline.* I'm sure things will get sticky when we start discussing who pays for what. It would be so helpful to be able to get objective estimates from a neutral party on what the original install should have cost and what the install that I'm requesting will cost. Is that ever done? I'll post any progress as it happens. Thank so much for your feedback. It has so helpful in getting clarity on this situation! ************ *The email I received this morning regarding my request to move forward with the estimates for the 17, 19 and 21 seer units: "The 17,19,21 Seer units besides being even more expensive will likely require more duct replacement, more sheetrock removal, etc. as this will snowball the work; time frame would increase accordingly. " and "Regarding the duct work replacement, it should be noted that the metal ducting trunkline system & some ducting that pre-existed in your home is still in place & that airflow supply system may need to be upsized as well, as the Seer rating increases, expanding the scope of other sheetrock & installation repairs as well." It would seem that he really doesn't want me to upgrade...From what I can gather the difference in cost of the equipment between the builder-grade Comfort series and the Infinity series is about $1,500 - about 1% of the total project cost....See MoreLooking for an A/C unit to fit in a 24" width 2nd floor bedroom window
Comments (4)Also you don’t have to put the side flaps on. I have a small window upstairs and my 5,000 BTU unit just slides in perfectly without the flaps, leaving about ½ inch to work with that I seal up with the foam that comes with the unit and duct tape....See Moreionized_gw
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