I haven't tried to reverse it as it is running in the direction that I want. There are no changeable connectors on the motor itself. The only problem that I'm having is that the motor has two black wires running into it and the engine plate with the wiring diagram only shows one. I want to know what the second black wire is for. I get high speed when using either black wire. There seems to be no difference in running.

Thanks, bus_driver. Can I ground it to the panel then, instead? The main panel is grounded via a stake in the ground outside (It was just done 2 years ago and passed inspection).

"Even though the phase nomenclature is incorrect, and typical US residential service is referred to as "single phase", the advice was sound. From an EE perspective, the two 120V legs (RMS measured with respect to ground) are 180 degrees out of phase with each other. (But you already knew that, probably better than anyone else on this board). " The 120/240 V system used for residential power in the US is an Edison circuit, just like a multi-wire branch circuit. It is NOT 2-phase. 2-phase was experimented with long ago to allow for starting torque in induction motors (wit single phase power an induction motor has zero starting torque). 2-phase was discarded when 3-phase power proved easier to distribute. 2-phase uses a 90 degree phase shift and minimum of four conductors. 3-phase power requires only three conductors for a delta configuration. The more common (and far more correct) description of a 120/240 V service is as legs, to make sure they are clearly differentiated from a 3-phase system that uses 120 degrees of shift.

benjesbride I absolutely LOVE this idea! Is moving a waste line more of an issue than moving the plumbing lines? I've always hated that the toilet is right at the door and would like to add a partition wall between the would be new vanity and toilet location. There is a vent in the rear of the existing shower (from bottom to top of building) that is about 12" wide. It's goes all the way to the end of the foyer closet. That leaves us with about 72" of space along the foyer closet wall to add a toilet and vanity. I think the toilet requires 30" so a 42" double vanity (or two smaller single vanities). We cannot have washer/dryers in this complex (old 1950's plumbing). But I've always complained about no linen closet in the bathroom so that works too. I'd like to move the door to the foyer; however, that would require a split vanity due to the heating pipes in the middle of the room along the wall behind the existing door. No, we are not adding a bedroom. That may be a later addition though, years from now. An neighbor converted the rear of the living/dining area to an office/bedroom (photo below). I've tried to adjust the floor plan to add the vent/shaft in the rear of the shower. It may not be worth the time and expense to open up the foyer wall if we can't get a great layout.