FWIW, the folks over at heatinghelp.com (almost all pros) told me the main line should be insulated as the heat lost warming the basement causes the boiler to operate longer to keep the water hot enough for the radiators (more $$ + less efficient). However, my mother's boiler company in the Buffalo (NY) area states the main pipe should be kept uninsulated for the same reason stated by baymee. All the pipes in the basement were insulated when we moved into the house but 7 kids "fixed" that. I'm not qualified to say who is right but the website moderator has written a couple of books on steam & hot water heat that are easily understood by the layperson. Two years ago I looked at pipe insulation and found large pipe sleeves (fiberglass surrounded by a white fiber cloth) only at a plumbing & heating store. The sleeves were very expensive. You might be able to use the foil wrap insulation, used on ductwork, for a more cost effective insulation method.

Please understand that I was the guy who has had to look at the leak in the ceiling and deduce where it is leaking. Mind you, not where it is showing, but where it is leaking. I had one lady who was really PO'd that I didn't magically know this. How dare I inconvenience her. On my second visit I brought the kids Ouija board. It can happen to you! As you will be spending a lot of time in that area, I would suggest a radon test prior to doing the re-model. rweigand, how different we are;) Someone shows me sparkling compound, tape and sandpaper and I'm heading for the door. Your post makes it sound joyful. Even sheet rockers don't like it. Matching a finish on a ceiling after a repair is exceedingly...touchy! If you do go with the rock make sure that they install some 1x3 strapping across the joist prior to the rock. A good electrical can fish from there. The difference between the basement and the first floor is that the entire distribution system is in the basement. That is where all the mains are for all services, electric, water, gas, heat, phone, etc. From the basement, the first and second floor are served with risers off of those systems. I can assure you that the plumber didn't anticipate covering the whole shebang. It is your house. Certainly decorate as you choose, Just be aware of what you are covering. Take detailed photos and measurements and SAVE them where they are accessible. That means not on your current PC. By the time you need it you may be 3 machines on. What that means to me is print the photos and do a scaled drawing and put the drawings in the 81/2x11 plastic sleeves and into a 3ring binder. Put that in the boiler room and tie it to something.

It doesn't take much heat to keep a basement warm if it is mostly below ground level. The mini-split would work well in a large open space, but it could be overkill for your basement. I think the first option is to explore using the current furnace. The fact it is located in the center of the space makes it an attractive option. It may be possible to make the basement a separate zone with its own thermostat. I suggest you call an HVAC contractor to see that is possible. Another option is electric baseboard heating. The installation cost would be less than a mini split, but the operating costs would be higher. If your electric rates are not high then you should also explore that option.

Our pool/spa combos share equipment. We use Jandy automated systems on all our builds and reno's. I have clients that have us winterize their pool and they will extend the spa use maybe until December. Our preference is a gas fired heater. Heat pumps require lots of electric power to operate and their foot print is giant. Things to consider for winter use. Read the manufacturers warranty regarding use at certain ambient temperatures. Some say explicitly not to operate below certain temps as warranties will not cover damaged goods. We ALWAYS strongly suggest a generator in the event of a power loss during frigid temps. Equipment and piping can freeze up very quickly when temps are well below freezing. I have witnessed this and have made the expensive repairs. We use salt systems in seson but you can manually adjust chems in the spa with small amounts of liquid chlorine and other required chems after the pool is winterized. An automatic cover or a solar cover is suggested to minimize heat loss. It will cost a bundle to operate in the winter no matter what your heat source. Plus, picture yourself shoveling snow for a pathway to your pool or spa. I give this scenario to clients every time when asked about running through the winter. Some food for thought.