Like pdxgal, I've had my fridge and wall ovens next to each other for 20 years with no problem. I, too, don't want to change my electrical service for those appliances, so the new ones will occupy the same positions. That said, you should be sure to e-mail customer service of the company that manufactures your new refrigerator and ask what their policy is regarding ovens and refrigerators next to each other. GE customer service told me it would void the refrigerator warranty. KA customer service told me the warranty would still be in effect, but they recommended 3 inches between the appliances if it was possible. I am going with the KA built-in side-by-side, and I have their answer IN WRITING (love e-mail!) regarding this appliance issue. FYI: When I asked GE customer service by telephone whether their policy was "carved in stone", they said yes. But their own marketing brochures have at least two photographs where their ovens and fridges are right next to each other!

I am in exactly the same place with my red oak floors :( my floors look just as orange as in the pictures... and the variations and wood grain are much more pronounced than I wanted. I have the flooring company coming in on Monday to put down the third coat of poly - do I have any options at this point? Or just a matter of it mattering less once I get more used to the new color...? I had this same level of shock and discomfort with my wall color (had to leave my apartment for the evening just to soothe myself!), but once they sanded the floors - I realized I loved the wall color, just that my old floor finish was clashing with it. Now after staining the floor - I am back to feeling they really clash... and I really wish I had just opted for no stain and a natural finish instead... I’d take that look over what I now have any day. At least - that’s how it feels right now. To the original poster - @lacollar - (or anyone else with a similar experience) - did you eventually get used to (or even fall in love with?! :)) your floors... even though at first it felt like the choice of stain color was a huge mistake? Has anyone tried tinting the final coat to tone down the orange/reds? Does that work? Appreciate any help/advice. Thank you all!

Hi, Wow. Thank you so much. Thank you for listening and advising and thank you for the details. ajsmama, I don't think I found any Contact paper without adhesive. I need to look at WalMart again. Here's what I did today, though: I went to Home Depot, again, and bought....... do not laugh . . . . vinyl floor remnants - pre cut remnants (yes, that is linoleum), with a backing, not very thick, 6' x 8' (I think) for $22. I remembered that I had used left-over vinyl 20 years ago for under the sink and for the major pots and pans cabinets. And it was still whole and not too yukky when we changed out the cabinets 6 weeks ago. So, I'm going to use that for the underneath spots and some pull outs. Then I went to Joann's and they have a HUGE assortment of stuff- all kinds of vinyl- didn't see cork-- cork was expensive at Home Depot, though, and with a backing. Anyway, I was all set to buy my vinyl stuff for the normal, not heavy duty places -- and the lady asked me if I had THE COUPON..... of course I didn't. She said it was 40% off of a fabric cut. So I went home to look for it and only found a 20 % coupon.....etc etc etc The quest continues. Vasue, thank you so much. I have to look into the cork more in detail tomorrow. I'll tell you one thing, KCboom, my cabinet shop (local one in Tucker GA) had never been asked about the lacquer issue....I think nobody lines cabinets around here. The Home Depot guys are not aware of it either and neither was I until I bought a bunch of awesome spongy white liner stuff at Lowe's and I was about to use it 2 days ago when I actually read the package label and saw the warning.....If so many people have varnish and lacquer (?) then why aren't there more liners for it? Ok. Tomorrow is the backsplash and the heavy sanding of the family room wood which had to be pulled out and re-installed because of so many worm holes. The backsplash and floor were not supposed to coincide, but hey, things happen. At least they do with us. good night and thank you.

flyleft, i have just the configuration you are describing re: recessed medicine cabinet (and bath storage cabinet) with full mirror door. My recommendation - put in the chrome handles. Not only to mesh with the other "handles" but because the chrome will better integrate with the mirrored doors and will just disappear against it. Our handles are the little cylinders-with-divots and they just disappear - a happy accident since I'd really okayed the chrome on these cabinets only to better integrate with the other shiny things in the bathroom! They do get mucky but only at the rate at which the mirror does so you'll be cleaning both at the same rate :-) Anecdotally, in the kitchen, our glass doors have an aluminum frame which is substantially lighter colored than is stainless steel. I'd picked stainless handles for the kitchen cabinets all the way around - so since the wood cabs had stainless, I naturally got stainless for these aluminum edged glass door cabinets too thinking that they'd integrate correctly. Mistake. Nobody will every see that the stainless pulls on the glass door corroborate the stainless pulls everywhere else - what even a blind man will see is that the glass door handle is so much darker and stark against the aluminum of the frame there. I should have picked aluminum or brushed chrome handles for the glass doors. Oh well. A correction for another time - I've put paid to the kitchen project. :-) So is this for the bathroom? I do hope you'll be supplying pictures of this project as it sounds amazing. What did you do about the teak counter?