Update: Before the install, I did wind up modifying the track in the air handler for the 1-inch air filter. I used 2 pieces of steel banding, 2 inches wide, cut to length, and placed them over the manufacturer's track using a few dabs of automobile body putty (Bondo) to keep it secure. It is now a smooth track for the filter to slide on. Goodman used the track as part of the frame of the air handler so it had some crimpings in it and the filter would not easily slide in. I also trimmed away some foil faced insulation that prevented the filter from seating properly. A 20"x24" filter now fits perfectly. I am glad that I did these minor mods as I would have been fighting this monthly when I change filters. The unit was installed Friday, 6/22, after I had it for about 5 weeks waiting on the installers. It took two guys 8 hours. I fed them both breakfast and lunch (I treat my installers well). The old supply air plenum and the plenum after the air handler had to be replaced to match the new unit. The old 5/16" liquid line had to be replaced with a new 3/8" line. 3 holes were cut into the finished ceiling and 1 in the wall so that the new line could be run. I'll repair the holes when I get a chance - no big deal. The TXV sticks out about 8 inches from the air handler. Looks funky and I have to be careful not to hit it while moving things around in that area. The old outside unit had sunk about 4 inches into the ground. I filled the hole with soil that I was saving, packed it down, put a plastic condensor mounting pad on the dirt, and used 3" thick brick to elevate the outside unit (which is huge in size compared to the old 7 SEER unit; 14 SEER = more coils = larger unit). The outside unit is much more quiet as expected but the new mult-speed air handler is also a little more quiet than the old one. The fan is set on low speed and I'm not sure of the setting of the old unit as the lables on the motor had worn away after 21 years. The sheet metal in the new air handler is flimsy and the track for the air filter can be improved by Mr Goodman. The outside unit looks decent. These comments were also noted by the installers. I plan on taking the outside and inside coils to a local scrap facility and sell the copper. Maybe I can get a few $$ for a couple cases cases of my favorite beer. I can now start saving 40% on the cooling and heating part of my energy bill and use this to combat the 65% increase in electric rates in the State of Maryland. All in all, I thought that I got a good value for the money spent (only time will tell if I made the right choice with Goodman). I got a 14 SEER system with Copeland scroll compressor, thermo-expansion valve on the air handler, hard start capacitor, 15 kw heat strip kit, bypass humidifier, and 10 year parts warranty for $2477 from a local HVAC supply shop. I paid $1200 for a pro install (needed the pro install for the warranty). Total cost was $2k less than...

We already have a 2 speed 18seer unit and it works VERY well. Variable speed blowers were not yet mainstream when the unit was purchased. The furnace blower has 5 different speeds, 3 of which are used. 2 for the 2 stages of cooling, and a lower one for the furnace. I realize a bit of efficiency is lost over a variable speed blower but without an inverter driven variable speed compressor, there is not much advantage to the variable speed blower. They use fixed speed setpoints anyway for the two speed condensers. My question was with regard to configuring the system as a hybrid heat pump with gas furnace instead of straigh AC with gas furnace. Can anyone answer this? Most hybrid systems place the cooling coil upstream of the furnace heat exchanger so that both heat sources can be used at the same time, in my arrangement, it would have to be either gas or hp, never both. Is it worth the $200 difference in cost or is there something else I am overlooking?

I realize this is an old threat but have the same issue as bevangel-i-h8-hOuzz. New tankless water heater does not provide enough flow to keep water hot enough for the dishwasher to work effectively. We tried turning the hot water heater up above 120 degrees. Have tried running hot water continuously in the sink while running the dishwasher. Also tried pausing the dishwasher each time it goes through a fill to get the water hot in the sink before resuming. Any other suggestions? Does the dedicated small hot water heater under the sink do the trick? Right now I'm regretting the new tankless water heater.

Chess, you can read a lot about Ikea cabinets on this site, but in general, people consider it a very good value cabinet. They aren't real wood, but as you have already found out, you're going to be paying a lot more for real wood that may make other cabinets out of budget. Ikea is generally considered to be priced like a very cheap cabinet, but quality of the low-end of midrange options. So you'd have to move into midrange options to get the same kind of quality, but none of them are going to come close to ikea quality. I think the biggest downsides for some people with ikea is the lack of door options, and some people really don't like that they are mdf/not real wood. That said, people with more knowledge than me will tell you that a high quality mdf cabinet is a much better option than a cheap wood cabinet.