We have a ton of radiators with wooden covers, so I understand wanting to do something with them. In our sunroom, I have plants on one of them. They are not affected by the heat even though these radiators have metal covers, so the tops are warmer than the ones with the wood covers. My kids use them as nightstands, basically, since they are next to their beds. I have a collection of "artsy" glass hearts displayed on the dining room radiator cover. I have seen quite a few of my neighbors display family photos on theirs. That, to me, might fit in the too-cutesey category.

I'm just wondering about one thing: Is it safe and energy-efficient to have the shelf sitting directly atop the radiator? Or is there actually going to be some space between them once the shelf is on its brackets? There doesn't seem to be much space to play with, height-wise, between the bottom of the new window ledge and the top of where the radiator would be, but maybe that's an optical illusion? The custom wood/metal grille radiator covers that were in the house I grew up in were built slightly larger all around so the warm air could circulate. Plus, my dad would occasionally "bleed" the radiators during winter, so he needed to be able to get the covers off easily. If you have hot-water radiators, which sometimes require that, will you be able to access the valve (which is on the top) easily? Just keep that in mind when deciding where the brackets are to be installed.

I have seen some really great covers made by some people on this web site. I have two radiators though that back up to the window frame. One radiator is actually a little higher than the window. Any suggestions on how to make the top of the cover so that it sort of looks good? Let me know! Thanks!

What has a good soil test told you about those beds? How much organic matter is in the soil? What is the soils pH? What about the major nutrients, Phosphorus, Potash, Calcium, Magnesium? What about drainage, soil life, smell, etc.? Perhaps these simple soil tests may be of some help. 1) Soil test for organic material. From that soil sample put enough of the rest to make a 4 inch level in a clear 1-quart jar, with a tight fitting lid. Fill that jar with water and replace the lid, tightly. Shake the jar vigorously and then let it stand for 24 hours. Your soil will settle out according to soil particle size and weight. For example, a good loam will have about 1-3/4 inch (about 45%) of sand on the bottom. about 1 inch (about 25%) of silt next, about 1 inch (25%) of clay above that, and about 1/4 inch (about 5%) of organic matter on the top. 2) Drainage. Dig a hole 1-foot square and 1 foot deep and fill that with water. After that water drains away refill the hole with more water and time how long it takes that to drain away. Anything less than 2 hours and your soil drains’ too quickly and needs more organic matter to slow that drainage down. Anything over 6 hours and the soil drains too slowly and needs lots of organic matter to speed it up. 3) Tilth. Take a handful of your slightly damp soil and squeeze it tightly. When the pressure is released the soil should hold together in that clump, but when poked with a finger that clump should fall apart. 4) Smell. What does your soil smell like? A pleasant, rich earthy odor? Putrid, offensive, repugnant odor? The more organic matter in your soil the more active the soil bacteria will be and the nicer your soil will smell, to a point. Too much organic matter can be bad as well. 5) Life. How many earthworms per shovel full were there? 5 or more indicates a pretty healthy soil. Fewer than 5, according to the Natural Resources Conservation Service, indicates a soil that is not healthy.