Geothermal heat pump quit working

10 years ago

All was working well no issued noise or problems. Unit tries to restart and compressor and fan hum. Contactor engaged 220 volts across it. Fan would run it started by hand. Replaced capacitor and installed a 5-2-1 hard start kit. No effect.

So i decided to run it on cool, fan motor had to be spun but compressor cooled and worked. Switched back to heat fan and compressor hum fan starts by hand compressor kicks out fan runs and shuts down. Grounds all tested and are good.

Any help please.

Jim

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Comments (5)

fsq4cw
10 years ago
Sounds like it might be a defective contactor relay or loose power cable connection. Are both fuses OK? Do you have regular service performed? What make/model HP are we talking about? How old?

You provide few details. Just because the contactor engages doesnÃ¢ÂÂt necessarily mean there is 220v across it. Have you measured this? Are you capable of safely measuring this? If in ANY doubt leave it to a professional!

You should have it properly serviced by a professional before further damage occurs.

SR
jeep461
Original Author
10 years ago
Yes I am capable of measuring this. I installed this unit myself and fixed my ac and electrical stuff for 30 + years.

This is a 4 year old Coldflow geothermal heat pump 3 ton. I have measured voltage across contactor , measured amperage to each side on start. 8 and 11. I was going to buy a new contactor today but supply house shut down early. I have not put gauges on it yet but will need to get it running 1st. I checked and tightened contactor and breaker all were tight. Both not wanting to run makes me think it is electric. Not sure why one side draws more current
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Just a couple of points, If you're presently using heat pumps and you say they work fine then your duct work should be OK. It should be checked for leakage and repaired, perhaps some modification may be in order but it doesn't sound like it needs to be ripped out and replaced. As for the desuperheater for domestic hot water production, I would definitely have this option because you're in an A/C dominated climate, probably very hot and humid. The desuperheater is a BIG plus and will help as you are extracting heat from the envelope which will go into your hot water tank rather than being sunk into the ground. If you were in the North where you would have a heating dominated climate and were trying to heat your home as well as heat the hot water then there may be some merit to the recommendation but not in your case. I would also absolutely have the desuperheater feed a buffer tank that then feeds your active hot water tank. Your hot water should be virtually FREE while you're air-conditioning. As for your ground conditions, is the ground wet or dry? How deep is the undisturbed earth (overburden) till the bedrock? I would be careful about horizontal ground loops if your soil is mostly clay and sand - not the best conditions! I'm not saying it can't be done, just be careful about what you do. If you do a horizontal ground heat exchange be sure it's properly sized and I would recommend installing a 'soaker hose' so that should you have a very long dry spell you have a method of rehydrating the ground loops otherwise you'll be up a dry creek without any A/C! As for the mini splits, I'd sooner air-condition in your area with the ground at around 65F to 67F than with the air when it's blistering hot! SR
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fsq4cw
10 years ago

It still might be the contactor thatÃ¢ÂÂs toasted and will not allow the full current draw across the contacts.

Your current draw seems low. It should be closer to 16amps per side when running. It makes sense that one side would draw more if the blower were 115v. That could account for the extra load on one side even when taking into account the attempt to balance out the load of the computer, flow center & desuperheater pump which all may be 115v. The compressor is 230v, everything else may be 115v with the exception of the blower, which could be 115v or 230v.

SR
jeep461
Original Author
10 years ago
It is all 220 have no desuper and no computer just a lockout. Basic system here open loop. No real way to load test contactor here other than replacement. I have backup heat and cool systems and it warmed up here. I wish parts house had not decided to close early but I do not blame them.

It is a strange thing. Had energy saver bulbs in the house intermittently, take 30 second to 1 min. to brighten up during the cold snap here last week. We had an 18 wheeler take out the pole and transformer for our street 2 weeks ago. I could be related or not. It acts like a bad ground wire.

Thanks for the feedback. Two heads are always better than one. I will keep you informed of progreess. Awaiting parts house reopening.

Jim
fsq4cw
10 years ago
You could check to see if you have a proper and solidly connected ground wire connected at you house that should be on the cold water entry pipe BEFORE the cut-off valve.

I also recommend Ã¢ÂÂWhole House Surge ProtectionÃ¢ÂÂ.

Keep us posted.

SR

Here is a link that might be useful: Square D Surge Breaker Plus

Geothermal heat pump quit working

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