Not so fast boys & girls; there's something else here that I didn't expect to see. The technical manual for the 25VNA series says in the Electrical Data that the Compressor LRA/RLA, FAN & MCA for the 024 & 036 are in fact all exactly the same! The 048 & 060 are likewise the same but of a higher value than the 024/036 series. The only electrical difference between the 024 & 036 is the MAX FUSE or CKT BRK AMPS (30-amps/024, 40-amps/036). When you compare the dBA levels between the 024 & 036 you will also notice the there is a substantial difference in MAX RPM between these 2 machines. That may be due to a programmed difference between the 2-sizes and could be what the trainer is alluding to. The shipping weights & operating weights are also exactly the same for the 024/036 as are the 048/060. Ditto for the dimensions, all 4 share the same size cabinets. This again may mean the 024/036 and the 048/060 are mechanically the same units. Maybe the dealer trainer knows something we don't! I guess we'll have to wait and see what develops. SR Here is a link that might be useful: 25VNA Carrier infinity Greenspeed Installation Manual

Hi, we have similar situation to research. We are looking into upgrading our HVAC and have question as to go with Heat Pump with Electric or Oil backup. Background: Central Massachusetts, 20 year old house, 3000sqft typical two story colonial with central forced hot air oil furnace and AC. Currently 5ton AC and heating with 80% efficient and I think 110000BTU oil furnace. Which might be more than necessary. No natural gas available. Oil or Propane. 200Amp main panel. Electric rates are about 11.39cents per KWH. Oil rates are about $4.00 dollars per gallon. AC is only two months or so, heating is more important. So we are thinking of choosing a low temperature Heat Pump with good HSFP, SEER is less important. Questions: We were wondering if for the price of electric and oil if we can move to electric as backup in this area (New England). Would there also be any re-sale issues later too? Our dealer is also recommending Byrant 280A 5 Ton low temperature with 20KW, which we might request to bump up to the three stage 24KW heat strips because we keep warm temperature (70F). Thank you for any help you can give.

Regarding not reaching 70, I assume that the average temperature dropped in the house due to in=and-out activity that might also tend to distribute the mass of cold air from our less insulated rear porch. The next scheduled event is back down to 62 at 8:00 a.m. I couldn't find the American Standard install manual online, but the same thermostat is available from Trane. I have excerpted what I think are the relevant controls to play with. I did look at these once, but was frankly too put off by all the double negatives such as, "disables the 10 minute inhibit" and "Heating Aggressive Recovery can only be enabled if Aggressive Recovery is disabled." I'll be back home in two weeks and I can try to adjust these. Naturally, I will ask for advice here on anything I'm unsure of. Aggressive Recovery: This option disables the 10 minute inhibit anytime the thermostat sees more than a 2° change (such as moving from one program time frame to another). This applies to heating & cooling modes. Heating Aggressive Recovery: This option disables the 10 minute inhibit based on outdoor temperature in heating mode only. The value for outdoor temperature can be set from 0°��"70°. Heating Aggressive Recovery can only be enabled if Aggressive Recovery is disabled.There is a 10 minute “inhibit” period between first and second stage compressor as well as compressor heating & supplemental strip heat. This 10 minute inhibit period minimizes the cycling of higher capacity request due to drafts around the thermostat or marginal load conditions. Cycle Rate The cycle rate affects the cycle time of the system. With a 50% load value, a cycle rate of 3 will allow the system to run for 10 minutes and be off for 10 minutes; completing 3 cycles in one hour. A cycle rate of 5 would allow the system to cycle on and off at 6 minute intervals. The higher the cycle rate, the more often the system turns on and off. The actual amount of time the system will be “on” or “off” will be reflective in the load value of the home. Higher load value demands will increase system run time and decrease system off time. Lower load value demands will decrease system run time and increase system off time.Emergency HeatThe heat pump will be disabled and the furnace / heat strips are enabled any time the thermostat is set to Emergency Heat. Lockouts System lockouts will disable a certain function of the system under specific outdoor temperatures:Compressor Heating Lockout • ��" will lockout all compressor operation below a set outdoor temperature (from 5°��"70°). This value must be set lower than the auxiliary heat lockout. Auxiliary Heating Lockout • ��" will lock out auxiliary heat stages above a set outdoor temperature (from 40°��"70°). This value must be set higher than the compressor heating lockout. Defrost Heater Balance Point • for W1, W2 & W3 ��" will lock out specific auxiliary heat stages when above a set outdoor temperature. (W1 setpoint is from 40°��"55°, W2 & W3 setpoints are from 5°��"55°). This feature does not apply to dual fuel systems. Compressor Cooling First Stage Lockout • ��" will lock out the first stage compressor above a set outdoor temperature. (from 80°��"120°) Compressor Heating First Stage Lockout • ��" will lock out the first stage compressor below a set outdoor temperature. (from 0°��"50°) Furnace First Stage Heating Lockout • ��" will lock out first stage furnace operation below a set outdoor temperature. (from 15°��"50°) First stage lockouts are not available with zoning. Setpoint Dead Band This sets the temperature band between heating and cooling setpoints while in the auto mode. Here is a link that might be useful: Trane Comfortlink II Installation Manual

Answer to Brad: I m located in Quebec, the weather is quite cold here, also the electricity cost is very low compare to the rest of north america, so comparing to me might not be very useful. I would suggest that you compare your electricity consumption with you neighbors ( ask your neighbor) or colleagues at work, that would give a better idea how your heat pump performing, try also to find out if your your utility company has a tool in there web site where you can compare your consumption with your peers. Hydro Quebec (our only utility company) has tool that gave me how efficient my home versus similar sizes home.