nah..lets stay on the same thread. I wouldn't put R-6 unfaced ductwrap. without a vapor barrier. the vb is to keep the insulation clean & dry. wet insulation loses it's R-value. hold out for the 4' wide R-8 usually 50' long. (R-4 is 4x100'. R-6 is 4x75'. R-8 is 4x50') keeping it all the same shipping rate. don't buy the unfaced. even if they have to order the R-8 faced wrap...its worth the wait. and if you have unopened roll they should take it back. on the bag the wrap comes in is the lenghts you cut for what size ducts. usually adding 4-6" including the lap (without insulation to fasten) will work. but check the bag, incase I don't find my table for that. materials you need from supply house are: wrap fsk tape (foil scrim kraft) to seal stapled seams duct stapler (a must have) duct staples duct strap & sheet metal screws paint mastic & brushes mastic tape. keep the length of each install the width of the roll 4'. that the ends butt and overlap is very important. I usually have a roll of duct tape handy (don't tell!) when first putting the wrap on the duct, you'll need something to hold it in place. use 5-6" lengths of duct tape to tape start end of wrap to duct, then wrap the rest of the wrap around the duct, overlap..staple, fsk tape, staple tape. staple overlap over butt end..staple, fsk tape, staple fsk tape. move to next 4" section. once you've worked you way back to main supply (where all ducts are taken off) add screws to make sure all is attached well. keep strapping to sheet metal you'll cut the wrap to go around this as you wrap. the take offs on the supply is where I find the mastic tape to be most useful. sticks well to clean dry surfaces, and once pressed into place will last as long as paint mastic. that it makes sheetmetal to wood, paper, foam sheathing..and many materials makes it worth the cost. sometimes ease of install is what you need, and Hardcast #1402 Mastic Tape is the best product. cut your wrap to lenghts needed. you'll cut out for ducts once wrap is in place before securing. make sure that wrap is cut to fit tight to the duct take off. the wrap on the duct itself should be in contact with main supply duct and wrap for main supply goes over the supply duct wrap. staple & mastic seal. where the supply duct meets the equipment..this should be mastic sealed as well. then use the mastic tape to seal both supply & return ducts (if this applies). two things... you may hesitate at forking out $50 for a duct stapler..but the wrap will NOT stay in place long term without it. also strapping ducts is very important. you want this job to last 30+ years, gravity is the enemy. the mastic you bought dries fairly quickly? run the heat..it will help it. any questions? and btw...if you can learn to do this correctly do a job for someone else..pay for all your materials (the duct stapler) & make a few bucks. I usually charge $2k for 9 supply ducts supply plenum & return. let me know when you are ready for the sealing of the supply box from inside the house. if y'all have questions..just post. best of luck.

Every case is different, and some routes will be less costly than others. There is nothing wrong with going out a side wall, so long as it doesn't dump cooking effluent onto an open window, a deck, or annoy the neighbors. I just wanted to raise the point that there can be more than one option for routing ducts. A roof penetration always has some risk of leaking. Ice dams are another possibility, but one which proper roofing should ameliorate. A very steep roof should tend to shed snow on its own. In some hip-roof ranches, for example, there is no path from the attic to the house side, as the roof edge and soffit is below the top of the wall of the floor below. Such structures are pretty much limited to roof exhausts. The Wolf, Abbaka, and similar designs are intended to be relatively low profile and not require a curb. The up and down blast blower configurations assume that a curb is used with its bottom sloped to match the roof. HVAC is a HVAC project, but the exhaust duct is not a very complex project if the only issue is connecting duct properly and integrating a cap into a roof properly. It is more of a roofing competence project that small builder and renovation craftsmen should be able to do. I can only wish you good luck in an education culture that depreciates trade-craft and promotes low-employment-demand college degrees for the sake of selling college degrees, even if the result is graduates lacking practical skills living in their parents' basements and owing a lot of money. kas

thanks for the additional comments. For clarification, the "warp is an overall slight warp for the door mostly in one corner, it's not that the plywood interior panel is wavy, it's pretty clean so I think the 1/8 inch plexi will work. I was thinking about using the mastic glue rather than the tape, but I am concerned about removing it if things don't go right. Is there an easy way to remove if I use the mastic rather than tape? I had a cheap mirror placed in the center of the door for about 10 years prior to refinishing and painting my doors, and it held quite well with tape. And it wasn't too difficult to remove. And Joseph, regarding the glass. The door was horizontal on sawhorse legs during the application of the mirror, so glass didn't go anywhere, and I don't have kids, but I appreciate your concern.

I suspect this duct work was intended to be connected to a register, but the sheetrock installer covered it up by mistake. I think you are better served by making use of the duct work rather than eliminating it. It there another house like yours in the neighborhood? If so ask your neighbor if they have a register in the area where the unconnected duct is located. That will give you a clue as to where it was supposed to be terminate with a supply register.