its been running ON for 3 hours now, and its 68 degrees in my apartment, its 58 outside.' the maintenance guy just came by with it still running, and put his hand to the register, and said "yea, thats not very warm, but it taks a while for things to warm up.. I told him it has been running for 3 hours and he just shrugged his shoulders..' i told him that the last guy (the other maintenance guy, there are 2 of them) didnt use any gauges when he "topped off" the refrigerant.. and asked "cant you overcharge the system?" he told me flatly NO.. after sitting there and feeling the heat he went and got a thermometer out of his truck and stuck it in the regester and ot read 90 degrees.. he said "shoot, 90 degrees coming out of there, thats great!" im no expert, but 90 degrees after running for 3 hours on EMERGENCY heat, doesent strike me as "great" then, he tells me "come monday, ill put you in a new thermostat.. HOW THE HELL does that help!! I put a brand new one on (which he doesnt believe has emergency heat despite me showing him the wiring and everything) and it had this problem, i put the original back on and it does the same exact thing.. IT IS NOT THE THERMOSTAT! even i can see that.

I have a Lennox 10a 64bc10p air conditioner unit, which is a two zone air conditioner. I turned the main floor switch to cool mode first, which works fine. After several hours, I turned the second floor switch to cool mode, and it suddenly stopped blowing air to both floors. The air conditioner unit outside (compressor?) was still running. I turned off the air conditioner, and turned on the fan only, which works (the blower works?). I thought it maybe the control board problem. I also tried turning on the air conditioner for a few minutes and turning it backoff, the vent blew cool air for couple minutes and then stopped. (does this mean the compressor works?). I checked and replaced the filter. But now if I turn on the air conditioner and then turn it off, the outside unit continues running, it should not be. (Is this a contactor problem?)

We are also having problems with one of our aluminum clad mahogany interior Marvin's. We have others in this house that we've replaced as we work around the remodel. One of them upstairs is a mulled unit just like the one that is giving us trouble. same as the original poster, the cold air isn't coming from around the sides where you would expect to find it from a poor installation. It's coming from the edges of the actual window that you lift up and down. My husband just checked the temperature and it's 40° and you can feel the air coming through. It would move curtains if we had any up. The seal is different on this one for some reason, so maybe that's the difference. It feels more rigid than the spongy seals on the other Marvin's we have in the house. Regardless, I guess we need to call someone out to take a look at it. If they call it pass through air and say that's normal, we're going to have to rethink our plan for the rest of the house. We are about to put Windows all over a porch that will be four seasoned and opened to the house. We certainly don't want to put all the money into climatizing the room just to have freezing air come in through the expensive windows. I'm not sure what the accusations are about in the comments. but I did want to let everyone know that we are having the same problem with one of our mulled windows.

Basically what I 'suspect' you are accomplishing is that you are giving the system time to equalize. Once the system has equalized and you turn it back on, the compressor starts and thus gives you cool air again. If the system is too far unequal from one side the system to the other, the compressor is under too much strain to start. This could be an indication of failure or it could be using so called 'techs' who don't understand 'exactly' how a system is supposed to work. It's one thing to be able to do a tune up, it is quite another to know how to repair and older system. The caveat if you will is the risk that you repair this unit, the unit may spring a leak or some other problem causing repair not to be worth the money. (It's an R22 unit, right?) You know just because I can repair any brand, doesn't mean it's always worth it. There is no brand immune to the hands of time. There are also those who 'claim' Goodman is some brand that is more prone to failure than other brands. I tell you it's a myth --- they all fail and this sort of problem on a 9 year old unit is very average. Problems that you are having now 'could' have been partly brought by those who have serviced the unit. Both the techs may only be 'partially' right... which ultimately makes them both wrong. Diagnosing a system is an 'in person' sort of business, provided of course you have hired someone capable to do the job you want done. Deposit all your tune up coupons here. I service the Katy, Texas area.