Sounds like alot goes into the thought os heat and air! I have abasement I would like heated and cooled a bit in the winter just to keep mold down (or i couild use the dehumidufier we have for the cooling because it is cool down there). The kids are miving back (grandchild and aLL) AND we want it warm down there. tEMPS HERE IN gEORGIA DO NOT GO LOW FOR LONG. Cost efficiency and heat is our concern (with three kids in college) would the heat pump, the electric baseboards, an electric firplace, be best? It is a small basement (less than 800) with a room already done (plug in heat) and two left to do. Before we get to work on it we need to decide on the heat flow and perhaps even the cool flow for summer. The ceiling is insulated and the unit would be just for the basement. Other questions: are registers and returns necessary in such a small area?Or ois that depending on the type of heat used?

Did the builder size the HVAC unit currently servicing the main level so that it could accomodate the basement? if so, adding the duct work for the basement is not a big deal. Post some details on what size units you currently have for each level and the sq footage. In my first home, they did no duct work in the basement but they did size the heater and AC unit to accomodate the basement living space. I acted as my own general contractor when I finished the beasment and I paid an HVAC company $1200 (this was in 1998) to add in ducts & registers in the basement. I did not add a seperate zone down there but could have easily done it for not much more. The basement was mostly below grade and worked fine running off the tstat on the main level. One thing you should get right now is a humidistat (costs about $20) and measure the humidity in your basement. With tighly sealed and insulated houses, moisture can be a big issue in the basement and lead to musty smells or mould. You might find that a dehumidifier is a worthwile investment when you finish your basemenent. I just added a large dehumidifier made by Sante Fe in my basement (currently mostly unfisished with some HVAC ducts) and it not only controls the humidity in the the basement, but we get the effects of drier air on the main level as well. This fixed a musty smell that my wife detected soon after we moved in, and then mildew spots we found on the basement cement floor when we had temperatures that were in the low 70's but humidity around 80% - very damp. Best of luck.

tigerdunes - I have learned a lot from reading your postings on this forum and I appreciate your inputs. Your minimum specs list has already been very useful (though a lot of sales people really struggle to find answers about some of the items on that list), and IâÂÂm leaning now toward the XL15i instead of the $660 more expensive XL16i. I still havenâÂÂt completely ruled out Carrier and Rheem, but a neighbor has had a 4-ton Trane XL14i for over three years and I like the way it does not seem to have collected very many of the evergreen needles that are everywhere around here. I am curious though just why the XL16i has so much trouble with dehumidification, and whether that is important to our well-shaded house just outside of Seattle. We havenâÂÂt bothered to run our heat pump in cooling mode for at least the last decade, so I remain mostly concerned with heating performance and expect to use very little cooling. Also, is the XL16i any less reliable that the XL15i, or is it just (as I understand from other forum postings) that it is more complex to hook up and hence more prone to improper installation? I am also puzzled when I compare ARI heating performance of the XL15i and XL16i. At 47 degrees their ARI heat capacity and COP are identical, and at 17 degrees the 15i has only 1% more heat capacity. The 16i has the better 17 degree COP, 2.86 versus 2.82, but it falls down on HSPF to 8.50 versus 9.00 for the 15i. This seems to imply that the 16i spends more time in defrost mode, but I do not understand why. Returning of your spec list, I assume âÂÂstaged backup heat stripsâ refers to the capability to selectively turn on part instead of all of the backup heat? Our old heat pump has this feature, but I have yet to find a sales person who can tell be whether modern systems can do this. One issue is not really relevant until our new heat pump is being installed, but opinions about it are so amusingly diverse I cannot resist asking. Our power utility offers an extra rebate if we install a lockout control. What should it control? We have a lockout set at 32 degrees on our old heat pump and I understood it prevents the backup heat from coming unless the outdoor temperatures is below 32 degrees. The âÂÂenergy expertâ I talked to at our power company agreed, but said the lockout should also turn off the heat pump compressor at 32 degrees to âÂÂprevent a spike in our electric bill.â I recognize efficiency is down at that temperature, but unless there is a lot of icing up it still seems to make sense to run the compressor. Sale personnel were about evenly split whether the lockout should turn off the compressor. Is there any clear answer on this?

Is the ductwork insulated? It doesn't sound like it. I'd start there. This should result in savings on your energy bill as well.